I guess it was my design on wrapping the sleeve with the crossmember. I don't have a hole saw or a way to notch the ends of the square tubing so that the DOM sleeve(bushing tube) flushes in so I came up with this idea. It was a pain but seemed to work out pretty nice and looks good. The upper coilover mounts are notched to slide on the crossmember. They are just tacked as I will be able to play with the angle once the truck is fully loaded. Final weld then.

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/
They are local to me. About 25 min away.They let me just walk around their parts room as my head spins trying to formulate a plan. lol  I picked up the 1 1/4" OD DOM tubing all custom cut and chamfered @ no extra cost. All the threaded bungs for the rods. All my heim joints which are incredible quality! They have some as big as your fist! All the PU bushings for the crossmember (x4) at the size I asked for (inner and outer DOM sleeves) with mounts for the outer sleeves. Custom cut some poly bushings and sleeves for my trailing arms where they mount to the LCA (factory mount location) so I can make some custom angled rod ends. Then all the different sized mounting tabs for the PU bushings, heim joints, and other rod ends. Their parts are super heavy duty for extreme off road stuff but they have all different sizes and their prices are great. Especially for their Heims!  I ordered up the Clevis ends, and polished SS poly rod ends from Speedway and Summit.

 

6 speed wrote:

Iron Maiden,
Remember this thread?
 (installation using many torque stays/bars):
http://irsforum.boardhost.com/viewtopic.php?id=404
Ken

 

 
Hell yes I do! How's it coming along? Sorry I havn't been on here lately. Didn't realize I hadn't updated anything. I made progress but switched gears to my C5 Corvette. Doing heads/Cam/Headers on it right now so the Harvester is just sitting. Here are some pics. Boxed in the rear of the frame. Finished the crossmember and figured out how I'm doing the upper coilover mounts. Keep in mind, it's all just tacked together. I have a Lincoln Mig but only have fluxcore for it. No gas setup yet. So I'm using it to fab everything and will need to finish it all off once I have gas and solid wire. I finally picked up my 1 1/4" DOM tubing from my local offroad parts manufacturer. RuffStuff Specialties. Got all the Heim joints, poly rod ends, clevis ends, tabs to mount it all up.... Also picked up the front and rear tie bars off Speedway. They are 3/8" and have the tabs on the end for my torque stays. I am running stays on the front and rear. The rear stays shown are showing them off the upper plate but I've decided to go off the rear tie bar like the front. I will pick the project up again in January after I finish up the Vette. For whatever reason I felt my stock LS1 wasn't enough power in the Vette so after my upgrades.... should put me 440-460rwhp. That ought to be better ; )
Here's some truck pics. I'll make sure to stop in frequently in case anyone has questions.

If yours is still in the cage, just measure it. That's what I did. I cut my cage apart and kept the upper portion so had the upper coilover mounts to reference back to. Upper plate, just made a template from the top of the diff and the upper part of the cage.

Wow. Good customer service. Is this the same rear my gears came from? Sure hope mine are good. Still need to take it in and get a quote.

http://www.partstrain.com/store/details/Jaguar/XJ6/EBC/Brake_Disc/1987/E35GD239.html?source=productads

I went all Jag. In fact I installed my Jag IFS first. I also pulled the coil springs in favor of a pair of Slam Specialties SS-6 air bags. Really awesome setup.

Outstanding!!!

Are you saying you think I would bog with the 3.54's? I know I will with my 2.88's but think 3.54's would be fine. I had been planning on 3.73's if I was gonna go aftermarket on the gears.
I've planned all along to have a local shop swap the gears for me and replace and bearings and seals at the same time. I plan on having it done when I pull the suspension apart to rebuild and paint it.

I own a C5 Corvette. I have been doing a bunch of upgrades to the suspension like ditching the transverse leaf spring/shocks in favor of adjustable coilovers. About a year ago I picked up new cross drilled and slotted rotors with ceramic pads. More so for cosmetic reasons and to lessen the brake dust and rust issues I was having with the factory setup. In my research on rotors I found that most people that track their cars often go with a slotted only rotor. That the cross drilled rotors crack from the high heat buildup of Autocross & HPDE driving. Yet the guys who drive mostly on the street and the occasional track day don't report issues with cross drilled rotors.
I would guess in todays races that most of those Le Mans cars are running carbon type rotors so hard to compare to what we install on these cars. Plus you are talking about the rear brake which I wouldn't think gets used as much but then again they are known to heat up due to being next to the diff.
I'm sure you will be just fine. Keep it up, they look great.
 

Sure like the brake hose setup. Especially the E brake kit. Where did you get that from?

Here is a photo I made that help me visualize it. It creates a giant "A-Arm" of sorts.

I agree Daze. Although I use a 220 unit. I had an electrician buddy of mine come over and install 2 dedicated 220's for me. One in the garage, and one outside the garage. I do not use an extention at all. And like you, when welding, I almost always bevel the edges.

The welder I have is actually my buddies.He's a welder by trade, he works on bridges, buildings and all that good stuff.  I've been using the flux-core wire for fabbing parts and what not. So far up to 1/4" mild steel without any problem.
I've wanted to switch over to the solid wire and gas simply because I have yet to try it and there is less splatter and the parts would be easier to clean up afterwards. In asking him and the building Maintenance guy I work with at UPS about flux-core or solid wire and gas..... both told me to go with the solid wire and gas for my chassis welding. 20K tensile strength -vs- 70K with the solid wire. My welder buddy asked one of his co-workers who happens to be a welding teacher at a junior college here in town and he said the same thing. So while I am the rookie who has no clue, I'm listening to the guys who do this stuff everyday. If I had a Tig setup I'm sure I would be using it but the Migs are so easy to use. Plug it in and go!

What about the upper coilover mounts?  Fixed or adjustable. Still trying to figure that out on mine.