Independent Rear Suspension, OEM, aftermarket, stock configuration or heavily modified, all makes and models, everyone is welcome here!!!

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12/21/2013 3:53 pm  #61


Re: Jag rear identification

I haven't come across a 200 r4 that's strong enough. I looked that route when I put this motor in my T/A the best I found was rated for 450hp.
I was looking at TCI they now make a 4l60e full manual with no electronics needed. But that $3500 more I'd have to spend. Would be cheaper to make a new driveshaft.

 

12/21/2013 4:05 pm  #62


Re: Jag rear identification

I have been under the impression that you have to dump BIG bucks into a 200R to get them to handle ANY HP. Would also have to lengthen the driveshaft compared to the 700/ 400 swap. I run a 700R with 4:11s and with some pretty short tires. While it is not really comfotable at 80mph it does OK at 70. Just seems to me keeping a taller tire and staying with the 700 would be a better deal than the 200. For cruising highway  that 400th would like to be infront of some different gears especially if you are going to pump some HP in front of that.

 

12/21/2013 4:13 pm  #63


Re: Jag rear identification

Well I don't have a 700r4 either and there the same problem. Can't handle the HP. I have the 400 so I'm gonna use it. Plus my motor likes at least 4:10 gears. Keep in mind I have the quick change so I can change the gears in a couple of minutes lol.

     Thread Starter
 

12/21/2013 4:49 pm  #64


Re: Jag rear identification

Trade that motor and the stars will align.

Ralphy

Last edited by Ralphy (12/21/2013 4:50 pm)

 

12/21/2013 5:28 pm  #65


Re: Jag rear identification

Trade if for what????? It better be good I have over $15,000 invested in this one. Lol

     Thread Starter
 

12/21/2013 6:51 pm  #66


Re: Jag rear identification

Ralphy, You are a machinist. Make your own. I didnt see any part too difficult to make with manual machines let alone when you have access to cnc machines. Even the quick change center wouldnt be too tough to make. Just carve it out of solid billet. It isnt made out of anything more exotic than 6160 Aluminum.  It might be a little tougher than cross drilling and reaming rotors  . My guess is the company you work for should be swimming in aluminum. Show us what that Mazak CNC vertical mill can really do. $15,000 would be enough to make about 5 of them including the price of the parts redily available like. Half shafts and R&P , carrier,bearings and primary shaft, as well as inner and outer stubs. That would be simple compaired to jet engines.  I didnt figure that theft would be required. maybe things are different where you work . I always worked out a deal with the company owner on the remnants. Typically I could get them at twice scrap price. Thats possible when you work for a small company.              Remnant would have been my word of choice. However that would have been large for bronze or brass but not for aluminum. We go through that stuff pretty fast. We dont usually get that large of a remnants but some times I luck out. A while back we machined down two plates 4'x12'x5" aluminum 6160. There were two large drop outs from the centers that were aprox. 20"x 5'x5"  I wanted to buy one of them but we had another job that wound up consuming most of both. I wound up getting two chunks 20"x15"x5". I paid  $150 ea.for the. remnants.  I got them to build another set of calipers. The price was right too.   As I recal the first customer paid for both 4'x12' plates, the next job was for another customer and he paid for the size he required making the material on the second job 100% profit.The old man didnt have any problem selling me what was left.. I dont know what these remnants weigh because I never weighed them nor did I calculate the wieght by volume but after packing them around I would guess they are about 100 lbs each.  BTW what on earth does soup cans have to do with anything on this site?  I find satisfaction in building the things I can. I only buy the things I cannot build. There is a point of deminishing returns with anything. I will be the first to admit the parts are available for Q/C rears. These are used fatigued parts. Aluminum fatigues fast when it is over worked. The bells and centers on most Q/C's were cast from poor quality aluminum. The castings are of good quality but the aluminum is somewhat brittle and is prone to crack. There are very few Q/C rears that had a soft life. They all get overworked until there fatigued and torqued out of shape then people sell them on e-bay. If you think about it the Q/C's are rated for far less HP than they have to suffer through. Failure is pretty comon. The parts available are beat up even when they dont look bad, they are fatigued.  That would be my motivation to make my own.  If you never go out to your shop it becomes far more difficult to build any thing.

Last edited by tyrellracing (12/23/2013 5:59 am)

 

12/21/2013 7:00 pm  #67


Re: Jag rear identification

Tyrell so you've talked for years now. Your an expert at all including fiberglass work and quick change repair.  Where's the pics, where are the links? Show us your race driver history, some track must have you listed in their archives? Show us something?

So I've entertained your curiosity and responded.  From a comment I never made to you, but someone else. That was made as small talk and light hearted. It went right over your head? This did start over a response to X.

One last note were talking an IRS QC. The type of loads are much different than a solid axle QC. So all your talk on weak bells wouldn't come into play.

  LOL Merry Christmas

X I understand, just gotta rib you.

Ralphy

Last edited by Ralphy (12/24/2013 1:41 pm)

 

12/21/2013 7:08 pm  #68


Re: Jag rear identification

So today I started doing all the work under the hood. Filling all the holes and redoing the front section that somebody took a saw all too.
Then I realized I traded my T/A because I didn't feel like finishing the custom fiberglass dash.
For a car made out of fiberglass. Lol

     Thread Starter
 

12/21/2013 7:28 pm  #69


Re: Jag rear identification

X look out for the I don't like that's.  lol

Ralphy

 

12/21/2013 7:37 pm  #70


Re: Jag rear identification

I found a whole lot of I don't like that's so far. Lol

     Thread Starter
 

12/21/2013 7:49 pm  #71


Re: Jag rear identification

Time and money.

xtrmes wrote:

I found a whole lot of I don't like that's so far. Lol

Ralphy
 

 

12/23/2013 1:04 pm  #72


Re: Jag rear identification

I got to thinking, back in the day. A friend ran Chevelles till about 75. Dale ran a high compression punched 454 in the Super Late Model division. Running a Frankland QC I don't remember the carrier ever breaking.  In fact when cars broke the announcer would general report what happened. And rears were seldom a problem. I do remember him breaking an axle and having a really weird look at the break.  Looking as if the axle was forged from multiple pieces. The car was easily over 500 HP.

Last edited by Ralphy (12/23/2013 9:08 pm)

 

12/23/2013 1:14 pm  #73


Re: Jag rear identification

That's what I was saying looking at the quick change I believe the only part that would ever break would be the axles. And that would only be if it hooked up. Which I don't think it would without slicks.

     Thread Starter
 

12/23/2013 1:34 pm  #74


Re: Jag rear identification

Here's a story, last race Dale ever ran was a season end 50 lapper. I was in the track entry. Dale let a new hot shoe named Lou Bacci drive, hope I spelled it right. Lou was having problems spinning comming out of the corner. Dale told him you can't feather the throttle. This QC had a ratcheting locker. Dale says pick off the throttle and get back into it only once. Lou learns fast, during hot laps, again I was at the track entrance in turn four. Lou stabs it and man did he come out hard! He left a pair of black lines all the way down the front stretch. Any how Lou qualified around 8th. Luck of the draw we get the pole. Start of the race old # 53 just loses the field imediately. About ten laps in he has almost half a lap on the whole field. Near lap 16 he's only a straight away from lapping cars. The car quits, flat out dies!. The battery cable came lose. LOL! Lou Bacci drove his street car into a tree like two years later killing himself.

The only time I can remember that carrier needing work? Dale and I changed the ring and pinion not from wear. But he wanted a different ratio, I think 4.11. The spur gears worked to a better advantage for the tracks he raced. I do not remember how the original ring and pinion looked. But had they been bad I think I would remember.

Dale sold his car never raced for years. He had his son racing truck at Lake Erie Speedway in PA abot 6 years ago. Still using the number 53. Back in the day Sr. won several track championships Berlin Raceway in Michigan at once he owned.

Dale Peterman's earlier car before he ran a QC.

"While this photo wasn't taken at the Leaf, Lou Pallotta made a lot of noise tat Cloverleaf  in Dale Peterman's Chevelle 427.  They made a great team and won some big races together."

Check out the rear, most racers used truck floaters in earlier times. Look at the wheel gusets. This car had a 55 gallon aluminum fuel tank. NO FUEL CELL!
http://jimmiesoldtimeracing.mywowbb.com/forum3/324-7.html



This is a photo of the car I helped my cousin build. He raced one race at Heidelburgh in the Gulf PRA 250 with the #2 on it. Think it finished 17th with Jim Moore driving. My cousin sold his half out to his partner Mike Pirro and goes with #32. Ironicly Mike get's Dales old driver Lou Pallotta. He was a winner for years.

"The late Lou Pallotta picks up a feature win in Mike Pirro's #32 Chevelle.  Lou had a great season going until a freak accident at Midvale.  He came back the next season in Jesse Jame's Pony Car at Painesville to test himself and then returned to the Late Models, concentrating mostly on Heidelberg and Sharon, PA.  A track champion at the Leaf and Lorain County Speedway, Lou was inducted into Lorain's Hall of Fame in 2005."


"Lou Pallotta in the Mike Pirro & son Chevelle.  Lou opened up the season at Cloverleaf in this car, setting a new track record and picking up a number of feature events.  He was racing at Midvale when a driveshaft broke and coasted into the infield and stood in front of the car.  Two cars got together and slid into the parked #32 hitting Lou in the process and sending him almost through the windshield.  He was rushed to the Hospital in Dover and was there for a number of weeks, required surgery for the many cuts he received and other damages.  That ended in season and his ride in the Pirro 32"


Ralphy

Last edited by Ralphy (12/23/2013 2:21 pm)

 

12/23/2013 9:28 pm  #75


Re: Jag rear identification

This pic is surprising.

Last edited by Ralphy (12/23/2013 9:30 pm)

 

12/24/2013 6:00 am  #76


Re: Jag rear identification

I'll have to look at this on my computer none of the pics are showing up on my phone.

     Thread Starter
 

12/24/2013 7:18 am  #77


Re: Jag rear identification

X they have their site/pics protected against anyone not a member to view. I was afraid of that, If you want to see the pics just become a member at the link. Just a couple of car pics of people I know. I'm thinking of downloading and re upload to a personal pic viewer site.

You do see the wheel stander with  the QC no?

Ralphy

Last edited by Ralphy (12/24/2013 7:24 am)

 

12/24/2013 7:44 am  #78


Re: Jag rear identification

Yes I can see that one.

     Thread Starter
 

12/24/2013 7:46 am  #79


Re: Jag rear identification

Do you see the quick change? lol!

Ralphy

 

1/20/2014 7:02 pm  #80


Re: Jag rear identification

The builder called me on Sunday and we had a nice long discussion on some of the things I found in the car. Basically I decided to just start over on a few things.
All new brakes and wiring. Removed it all starting over all new. Wilwood brake pedal with dual master cylinders. New cylipers and rotors. Painless harness, Watkins Street Works billet switch panels.
New dash from dash works.
Been working on it about everyday.

     Thread Starter
 

1/20/2014 7:12 pm  #81


Re: Jag rear identification

For some reason it won't let me upload pics.

     Thread Starter
 

1/22/2014 2:28 pm  #82


Re: Jag rear identification

Heres some more pics the builder sent me.









     Thread Starter
 

1/22/2014 2:35 pm  #83


Re: Jag rear identification

Some progress pics. The wiring was a mess so I ripped it all out. Going to rewire the whole car. Found a big mess under the console and the dash.
The brake pedal setup was scary. Good for the 80's and a show car that doesn't get driven but not for a car with 1023HP.
So I installed a new Wilwood brake pedal with dual master cylinders. Just have to do the brake lines then that will be done.
Also got a new dash and got it fit in the car. Working on a few small changes now that I didn't like about it.







     Thread Starter
 

1/22/2014 5:06 pm  #84


Re: Jag rear identification

Did you ever consider remote resevoirs for the brakes? They make a plastic or billet aluminum. The dash is awesome!

Ralphy

Last edited by Ralphy (1/22/2014 5:27 pm)

 

1/22/2014 6:32 pm  #85


Re: Jag rear identification

I did the master cylinders come with the brackets and lines to remote mount them.
Problem it there's no place to put them. They need to be higher then the cylinders and I don't want them under the hood.

     Thread Starter
 

1/23/2014 3:25 pm  #86


Re: Jag rear identification

I figured I'd give you all a peek at the motor thats going in.


     Thread Starter
 

1/23/2014 8:42 pm  #87


Re: Jag rear identification

I would put in a high winding small block with an IR 4 Weber intake, T56 trans, shave as much weight as possible, and replace those brake rotors ASAP.

Those brake rotors are frightening, over-drilled AND chromed.
Weakened and hydrogen embrittlement, not a good combination.


At these prices I want my gas 100 octane, leaded, and my windshield washed!
 

1/24/2014 7:57 pm  #88


Re: Jag rear identification

I wouldnt say there over drilled the new ones are the same just not chrome.
And not a big fan of small blocks or manual shifting the involves a clutch.

     Thread Starter
 

1/24/2014 11:16 pm  #89


Re: Jag rear identification

I have to disagree, lots of threads on many forums regarding drilled brake rotors cracking.
A restrained number of holes with proper bevel are fine, I have them on my El Camino.
But your pics look like dragster equipment, one stop per run, not street driven in traffic.
Slotted without holes would be better for a 1000HP street car.
My .02¢


At these prices I want my gas 100 octane, leaded, and my windshield washed!
 

1/25/2014 6:38 am  #90


Re: Jag rear identification

I understand what your saying and most of those are road race cars where the brakes are used allot. This car if it gets a couple hundred miles a year will be allot.
I appreciate your concerns.

     Thread Starter
 

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