I would only consider it IF the the wheel was supported by a hubcentric ring on the hub.  If you are relying on the the studs to position the wheel it would be to hard to get the wheel properly centered and vibrations could arise.

Your thought give me an idea,  maybe we are going at this the wrong way.  The difference in the bolt pattern is only 1/8" per hole so what if you removed the OEM studs weld up the outside edge of the holes and then redrill the pattern??  Most of the weld would then be drilled out especially if you get a stud that has a bigger press section also by only welding up the outside you minimize heat which should help maintain hub strength .  When I was first looking for studs I found some that were 1/2" bolts but the press shoulders were 5/8"

There are a couple of issues.  On a Jag hub with inboard disc brakes the hub can simply be redrilled using my 3-hole jig

It is used by mounting said jig between two wheel studs on the original Jag pattern and then using the center hole in the jig to drill out an 1/8" pilot hole in the new pattern.  Once the pilot hole has been drilled the jig can be moved to the next position and the next pilot hole can be drilled.  Click Here to Order


unfortunately with out board discs that is not an option.  The rotor is not that big of a deal, just one more thing to drill, the issue is the adjuster hole for the parking brake. the hole is right where the new pattern will need to be. I highlighted the hole in the picture.   

Also I forgot to mention that the flange is different thicknesses where the studs are as apposed to where they need to go for the Ford pattern. you can kind of see it in this pic. The bump on the back side of the wheel flange in the picture is not the wheel stud.  It is where the flange is thicker to support the wheel stud.

So the only option in modifying the hub to have the correct pattern is to do so in basically the same location as the original pattern studs, just 1/8" closer to the center of the hub.

Making hubs is practical if your wallet is deep enough and as long as the inside spline isn't something too odd.   Plenty of places can cut straight splines. 

When it came to cutting a Ford pitman arm to fit the metric tapered spline of a German ZF steering box output shaft the only economical approach I found was...well, to send them to Mustsed in Turkey for him to have them done.

The Mark VIII hubs are of no use, those were 5x4.25in.  The '98-04 Mustang Cobra hubs are the same basic shape but have 5x4.5in bolt circle and a larger hub pilot, but Ford wants a fair bit of money for those things.   I would be surprised if that hub would fit, as the FN10/MN12/SN99 Cobra rear uprights use a Timken SET49 one-piece double tapered roller bearing cartridge assembly.

What diameter are those studs at their bases?  If my googling is accurate...do the Jag studs screw in from the front, or press in from the back?   They're all 1/2-20, and the only X300/X308 studs I can find that are a press-in have only a .540 diameter knurl.   The centerline of the stud moves in about 0.12in for the Ford bolt circle.   

I'd just have the holes welded up, clean up the faces of the flange and then drill them on a 5x4.5 bolt circle, maybe for something like a Moroso 46190 stud (1/2-20 x 3) that needs a .680 nominal hole.   You'd end up with very little of the weld material left anyway. 

Then you get to consider hub-centering of the wheels on the hub pilot...what's the pilot diameter on those hubs?

Last edited by JEM (10/29/2011 9:10 am)

isn't that basically what I said a few posts up, "weld and redrill"    with my idea you are minimizing the welding and heat soak but it will be hard to get it accurate so doing the weld it up completely and redrill it option will probably be better.  I don't think I would do the cut and weld option.  If you look at all the hubs for various applications they are all a one piece design.  I bet that is not only for strength but also for balance.  If you weld it up it will be hard to get the part balanced correctly.  So if you are ditching the adapters what are you going to do to take up the extra inch per side that the the rear will be narrower than stock???

Mustsed wrote:

Today I put on the rims on the hubs and noticed that the caliper & rotors are to deep inside the wheel against my liking! The solution would be removal of the spacers but then the bolt pattern problem is back.

Here is a thought, what if you put the adapter between the hub and the  rotor and then used a 1" spacer to move the calipers out to match???

I will need to go out and look but I think those parts could be shimmed out as well

Mustsed wrote:

I like the idea of welding the holes and redrilling with the new bolt patern. This will give the best result and I can use the added space for deeeeeeeeeper dish wheels!

Oh sure now you tell me, I guess I will quit trying to come up with solutions