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on April 23, 2010, 9:29 pmDaze wrote:
I think I have figured out what I want to do but would like to get your ideas.
My rubber mounts are typical 9/16" hole Mustang shackle bushings. to add rigidity and get the id to 1/2" I press a 5/8 sleeve in to the bushings. This is how I made the front rubber mount on the side brackets. The steel sleeve goes in fairly well but does take a little pressure and has me wondering what the best idea for the rear mount is.
I could use the stock upper hole in the frame, install the shackle bushings as designed and then run a solid Stael piece welded to the side bracket up to the mount. This idea is the most straight forward, but I am worried that I will not be able to get the sleeve pressed in to the bushings, with the limited access to the bushings when they are in the car.
The second idea is to set it up the same as above but use poly bushings which are way more rigid and already have the 1/2" ID hole. The problem with this is I don't like poly, it doesn't give enough and I am worried that there will be more flex in the front than the rear.
Third option is to use a shackle design utilizing the poly bushings in the Mustang frame and then weld a sleeve to the end of side bracket like the one n the front to house the rubber bushings in the lower shackle location. if I did this I should have fairly even flex, but would need to run an angled piece of steel from the lower rubber mount bolt up to the frame to keep the "shackle" from swinging.
Forth, some brilliant idea that I have not thought of that one of you just came up with wile reading this. remember this, it must remain a bolt in.
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All of the aboves are possible but ................... according to your wish to have the front equal to the rear, I might suggest you an opinion.
Compress a stock style but bigger id bushings with a small section of tubing that has an id of 1/2". Make the pipe shorter then the bushings so that the bolt has to got trough a small section of bushing-then pipe- then bushing again. This way you will have the compressed stock bushing and something to hold it on the bolt but it will drop in easier then without the tubing.
Hope that this is understandable
Mustsed
BTW; I myself would go with poly bushings all around.
Thread StarterOffline
That is a good idea, and gave me an even better one... I love brane storming
Prior to reading your post I was thinking I would try and grease up the 3" long sleeve and see if I could press it in by hand. You can easily press an ungreased sleeve through the first rubber bushing by hand but it gets rather tough as you get in to the second one with out a press and so that was why I was worried about how to do it. If greasing the tube didn't work, I was planning on using the third option
"The shackle design utilizing the poly bushings in the Mustang frame and then weld a sleeve to the end of side bracket like the one n the front to house the rubber bushings in the lower shackle location. if I did this I should have fairly even flex, but would need to run an angled piece of steel from the lower rubber mount bolt up to the frame to keep the "shackle" from swinging. "
But after reading your post I realized I was making it way to complicated. I will use one set of rubber bushings in the Mustang frame as originally designed, weld the lower part of the "shackle" to my side supports (no bushing) and use two 1.5" sleeves instead of one 3" sleeve, that way I can press the steel bushing in to one rubber bushing, instal that one bushing/sleeve combo, and then repeat with the other rubber bushing/sleeve combo
Thanks for the idea!!! if I had not read you post I never would have come up with this option.
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Good that I sometimes can give usefull info too ..............but I still think that poly would do just as well and the difference might be not that much.
Mustsed
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