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on April 17, 2010, 5:08 pm Daze wrote:
I used some .75" X 1.5" tubing with 18 gage walls to make my main side support...
PATTERN
As I said in my previous post this install will be a bolt on utilizing the original leaf spring mounting locations to bolt it in to the car. To accomplish this I needed to make a frame that bolts in said location and runs along the curves of the original frame rails. This is what I came up with
As you can see it fits well and the design provides a nice level center section to weld in tubes that will connect the two brackets together. From there I can hang the Jaguar parts from the tubes.
The pattern will be used to make the final units out of 1.5" X 2" rectangular tubing with .120 walls. I was trying to decide weather to notch the tubing then bend it my self and weld it back together, or have it bent, at a local shop. Even though the bent tube would probably be cleaner I think I want to keep this a DIY as possible so I will use the notch and weld method, besides then it will match my sub frame connectors.
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I've been waiting to see such pictures for a long time
Can't wait to see the final frame.
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I'm interested to see just where you're going with this! I have no idea why you're doing it this way... will the original Jag cage bolt to these new rails? I'll just wait and see. Posted a pic of the unit ready to go in my car in the introductions thread.
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Nope no cage, I am going to weld to support beams between the two... side beams and then all the differential parts will bolt to that. The frame rails on my car are so thin that I wanted to make the install a bolt in and use the original leaf spring mounts. Also by doing that I can use rubber bushings at the mount locations like Jaguar did to reduce chassis vibration.
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I didn't "see" it before, but I figured out what you're doing now. The long rail you made will bolt to the spring mounts, front "eye" mount and the rear shackle mount.... duh!! So you will still be making a crossmember similar to what I did to sit between the rails you made for each side.
I'm not sure this is such a good idea -- you're going to have some side loads on those little rails. The tubing size woudn't be much of a problem, but they are LONG. Try welding two small pieces vertically on the inside where they will fit just inside the original Mustang "frame" rails. That will give you sideways support. With a pair of verticals on each side on the inside of the rails it can't move to either side.
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Good catch!!! The thin stuff I mentioned in my title was just for the pattern
I was trying to get a rise out of some one for using stuff that was to small. If you look at the bottom of my first post I cam clean and mentioned that The final units will be 1.5" high X 2"wide and .120 walls. Sorry, I was trying to be funny I will be using the same 2" X 1.5" with .120 walls for the connecting rail between the two units except there will be 2 of them running parallel and about 6 " apart. Also I will probably run a cross support at the shackle end behind the gas tank.
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Daze, why don't you put this side support........ inside the frames?
The holes are there and the only thing would be that they spread while going to the back. You could use the rubber cushion pad hole as a third support for the sides also.
Just thinking loud....
Mustsed
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I like out loud thinking.... and I love the fact that we can bounce ideas of one another, because there are lots of good ideas out there most of which are not mine
It all comes back to the bolt in thing. By putting it on the outside, I can use the original front leaf spring mount with the bolt in double shear. if I used the same mount on the inside the bolt would be in single shear unless I put together a bracket but then it would have to be welded in and so on.
I do plan on using the original bump stoop as a passive mount. I will either cut a bump stop or make something else work in that location to transfer some of the weight of the back of the cat to the frame, but it will not be bolted in, just rest there.
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