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Looking for input/help to improve the rear suspension for a 1985 TVR 280i. It has an existing trailing arm suspension with a jaguar rear differential/inboard brake setup. The main problem I'm trying to correct/improve is the front pivot pin to the front of the arm. This pin tends to wear out fast and dangerously ! This also is where toe-in is adjusted. Currently I noticed a negative camber on the right. I believe the wearing out front pin is in part contributing to this. With the solid axle, shims are used next to the differential for adjustments and I'll have to look at those too.
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trying to figure out how to post pictures...
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Looks like you've hit the"magic" 3 on your posts - should be able to load pics now. Looking forward to seeing them.
Here's the "How-2"
Cheers - Jim
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Hope I've got this right
First diagram shows the rear suspension design
Picture has a redone set up
[img][/img]
[img][/img]
The pin (red arrow) on the diagram is prone to wearing out fast
The end/front of the arm is what has been modified
Here is one option I was able to find
[img][/img]
[img][/img]
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For this type of setup, this arm controls/adjusts toe-in/out. It would seem that changing it to a rose joint/ball joint allows "length" but not "side-to-side" that would be needed for toe adjustment. Is there a more efficient wat to solve this issue?
It definitely removes the weak pin problem
Thanks
Last edited by Kestor (11/06/2017 8:26 am)
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Ahhh - pictures - well done - and these explain well too.
Very similar to the Corvette Rear Trailing Arm setup. Although a much more severe angle here. A popular mod on the 'vette is the Johnny Joint. here is a good how-to: mind you, they're not cheap - but rock crushers believe in them! Stronger than a heim or Rose Joint, but similar action.
Basically, the joint goes in the trailing arm, and not the chassis mount. That way any articulation is compensated for in the TA.
You can also replace the bolt/pin with a drilled greased version to help keep it lubed. Those are popular with 4x4 off road folks - so you know they're strong-as.
Good luck - keep us "posted"
Cheers - Jim
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NIce
Thanks for the recommendation
I'll do some research on these. Also saw "jimmy joint" which looks the same
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Hah- ha - that is funny! If you poke around here - you'll find my "Jim's Giovanni" - it has the Currie johnny joints mod in the TAs.
Cheers - Jim
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Would I be better off putting the johnny joint in the trailing arm or attaching one to the end?
Main considerations are strength, durability as well as adjustments for toe-in/-out (read as simplest)
With the joint in the trailing arm I see that shims are used for alignment, is this correct?
Also, are there any other spots with my suspension that need to be modified to handle the extra power?
I wouldn't want to miss something while I've got it all "aparty"!!
Thanks for the help!
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This type would attach to the end and give you both length and some toe adjustment possibilities.
Note they have teh specs available to size the threaded end you've shown in the pics.
For while you're at it - maybe the U-joints and bearings checked? The half shafts are part of the suspension and they will be critical - just like a 'vette with TAs.
Cheers - Jim
Last edited by phantomjock (11/11/2017 3:44 am)
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