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When I was using full width XJ6 LCA's I had 16 x 8 rims at all four corners. These rims didnt allow enough tire to really hook up. There was some serious wheel hop initally then I made new mounts that reduced the angle the LCA's were mounted. I later discovered the ones I made were almost identical to the XKE mounts. This reduced the amount of anti squat and wheel hop but didnt eliminate it. Then I built a T5 type suspension and that eliminated the wheel hop. The only draw back with the T5 was it would not allow me to use the entire wheel well. That limited my rear rim width to the 8" rims. The torque my new engine produced made these rims obsolete. The XJ6 LCA's had to be shortened to accept the 19" rims. I initally shortened the XJ6 half shafts by doing a full pen weld, then I slit some 3/16 wall tubing and spread it open enough to let the half shaft in. Then I used a hydralic press and squeezed it tight around the axel. I finished by welding the slit closed and filled in around the ends with weld. Then I put the shafts in my lathe and smoothed out all of my work. Later this made finding cracks real easy.. This looked pretty but still couldnt stand up to the punishment my engine could dish out with the new found traction. The rear tires hold their grip far better than the narrow ones(obviously) and because of this I can drive aggressively with very little wheel hop. If I try to light up the tires from a dead stop going straight forward, it can generate hop. If I kick it side ways slightly from a standing start there is no hop. It just depends on tecnique.. The shortened axle's cracked multiple times from torsion loading. The solid axels could twist a small amount with out failure. The tubing would not twist with out cracking. Thats why I went to the shortened chev 1 ton drive shaft's.. I havent had a problem since. Note. If you shorten your axels in a similar fasion, Listen for squeaks. They are the death noises cracked half shafts make before complete failure.
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As far as braking is concerned. The larger rotors combined with the old Mustang Kelsey hays 4 piston calipers mounted in board at the rear and the 14" rotors with custom made 6 piston calipers on the front required a perportioning valve to get the stoping forces under control. My car stops like dropping an anchor now with out drama.. The stock vacuume type power booster failed at the beginning of last summer so I decided to convert to a hydro boost set up. What a difference.The Hydro boost brake amplification is totally superior to the old bendix vacuume booster in every way possible including size. The one I chose was from a Chevy 1 ton moving van. This one uses a seperate accumulator which makes the whole package much smaller. I havent noticed any torque cuple issues or braking hop after I got the perportioning set correctly. The brake hop only occured when the rear tires locked up. Having a tight limited slip, the rear tires always locked up together. This made the problem seem far worse than it actually was.