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Daze,
Hear me out, take out the Y shaped toe/camber rod and use two heimed parallel rods at your four wishbone link points. Now you clear your rotors! Angle your hubs as like the T5 and you get toe steering. My thought is that this will only increase the toe/steering effect. A Y mount negates some steer because the single inner mount being back of the front heim. Works counter due to the watts design rolling the centerline of the hub rear under joince. The setup would look as the Guldstrand camber rods. Now if you were to widden the two inner camber rod mounts past parallel. You will get an even faster toe steer.
Ralphy
BUT!
You can't mount the coilover to the camber rod.................... I think........................
Last edited by Ralphy (5/29/2011 10:24 am)
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Or you could use the front or rear point.
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at this point I think I am going to leave well enough alone but, I am always messing with stuff so we will se what the future holds
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OK,
Pretty quiet here! I have some ideas that I need to further verify. So I am going to build a model out of string or light wood to measure the toe through motion. I will use a laser pointer at app. 10 to 15 feet. My thought is that I want to get app. .30 degrees at 2" travel. I want to build something that is fairly modifiable. So if I miss on numbers I can easily change. Think of Duane's setup with two separate camber rods and the front rod moved forward at the diff. Like so, \ I if I move the forward angled CR out. I should increase toe the further I move. Then mounting my coilover at the pivot instead of on the camber rod.
Last edited by Ralphy (7/27/2011 9:28 am)
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It has been kind of quiet. I know for me I have been altogether to busy to post let alone work on my Mustang so I had nothing to post That sounds like a fantastic idea. I hope you take some pix of the set up so we can see your model in action so to speak. If your rear steer works as well as you want it too, I may have to copy it for my Galaxie's IRS when I get there