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Hey guys I just bought a 66 Corvette. I was told the rear it has is a Jag rear. I need to know what it is and if it can be upgraded.
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I'm going to be installing a BBC with an 8:71 Supercharger making 1023HP so I'm looking to do some upgrades. It's going to need at least 3:90 gears.
The car is light so I don't think it will hookup and break anything. But it would be nice to know it won't.
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Heres a couple of pics. As you can see everythings custom. 
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I'm pretty positive that isn't a Jag rear. The veritcal shocks are throwing me off and it seems to have CV joints. Also, that rear cover looks more like a quick change than a Jag but that could just be the cover.
That seems to have more in common with a Vette rear than anything. I would guess a second generation but someone with more experience could tell you better.
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That's what I thought it was a quick change. But was told no. I'm quickly finding out I know more about this car then the guy I bought it from who owned it for three years.
Quick changes are normally allot longer on the back where the cover goes.
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I'm thinking that's a CWI housing. Is the housing aluminum?
Ralphy
Last edited by Ralphy (12/12/2013 12:21 pm)
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Yes its aluminum. What's CWI ?
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Concours West Industries, he closed shop. However he has some parts still. Also he will make parts as needed. I think I have the name right. Sure would like to see more pictures from other angles. Are the A arms aluminum?
I'm reading he may have gone to the UK for a bit, he may be back.
Mike Bontoft
360-749-6372
michael.bontoft@gmail.com
Ralphy
Last edited by Ralphy (12/12/2013 4:16 pm)
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I'm sorry but those pics are saying high RPM all aluminum, small block, track car to me.
Ralphy
Last edited by Ralphy (12/12/2013 5:02 pm)
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The Roadster Shop built a 1,000 HP chassis they were selling. However searching it may appear they gave up on it. It's based on the C5/C6 suspension. Steel tube A arms, the LCA is something like 1 1/4" diameter STEEL TUBE.
Ralphy
Last edited by Ralphy (12/12/2013 5:22 pm)
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Phantomjock should be all over this one! Again please post more pics. That's Nice!
Now if that's a CWI housing I'm not sure what make the inners are, they may be Jag. But I think it may be a Ford 9" setup.
Ralphy
Last edited by Ralphy (12/12/2013 5:40 pm)
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OK after jacking the car up and getting it on jack stands its the first time I've got a good look at it. It looks like a Quick change to me. And yes the whole cradal and control arms are aluminum. Most of the stuff is chrome plated. Needs allot of cleaning under there.
The whole front supension is done the same way. Everything is custom one off.
I think its even more amazing all this stuff was done back in the 80's. The cost to build this car was $180,000.
I'll throw in a couple pics of the front suspension too.
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Oh my god, I didn't have to read your type. That is a quick change! YOU LUCKY DOG! That is a pro track car. Forget about a super charger. If you did that car up right, it could be in a magazine, IMO. Is that a coupe or a roadster? You do know that cantilever suspension is rare and $$$!
More pics!
Ralphy
Last edited by Ralphy (12/12/2013 6:14 pm)
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Its actually a highly customized Mako shark. I have to redo the body on it. The guy that had it last left it outside for three years. Didn't do it much good. You can see most of the chrome is rusted. This car was built just to be a show car. It competed in the ISCA shows for a few years and was rated nuber two in the nation. I have been in contact with World of Wheels and there going to send me a magazine the car was fetured in and whatever else they can find.
I'm also going to contact Earnie Ball hes the one who built the car. The guy I got it from said he called him and he sent him a bunch of pictures of the car during the build.
It wasn't street leagal. No lights or wipers or things it needed for inspection.
It went through a few people who tried to get it on the street but just made a mess of it. I have to rewire the complete car.
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Personally I would try do do away with some of the show and turn it more into a go. lol! Show is out today, way out. I'd go to a board like vettemod.com and start a thread, What Would You Do? I'm not to crazy about the nose, nor the dash.
Ralphy
Last edited by Ralphy (12/12/2013 6:44 pm)
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I'm planning on making it something I can drive and have fun with. I've had lots of show cars and there not so fun just to trailer them to a show and sit there all day in the hot sun.
I also don't like the dash. I'm going to change it. I have to remove it to do all the wiring anyways.
It loks to me that they used a 70ish Mako kit to build this. Its not like any 66 Mako I've ever seen. YOu can do a google search and see that.
I like the body but not a big fan of the nose either. It does look allot different when the grill is installed.
I figured the Blower motor was fitting for the style of car and since I alreeady have it, it saves me lots of money.
Now I just have to figure out what ears are in it.
I can't see the drive shaft to count the turns since its inside a steel tube.
I'll check out the website you posted. Thanks.
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I think were a bit on the same page. You have one badass chassis first off. The body? How can you bring it up to date? Interior redo!
How do you turn what you have into this?
This ain't to bad! Maybe retro tail lights. Old style gas filler cap, but move it forward.
Ralphy
Last edited by Ralphy (12/12/2013 7:13 pm)
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My motor sounds allot meaner then that. I had it in a Pro Street 70 T/A and it literally vibrates the ground.
I was thinking of adding some more modern lights in the nose up on top. Just have to look around to see what I like.
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Going back to the aluminum A arms? You plant those tires well, with 1,000 HP, things might start moving and not go back. $$$ fix.
Ralphy
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I don't think it will hook with the small tires. Well will find out.
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I'd be concerned with 1000 hp as well, try to limit it to 975 and no more 
Just kidding. I hate to say this, the vette looks like a cross between a dream project and a nightmare.
With that said, make it your own and have some fun!
Can't wait to see pics with updates!
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It needs more then the car I traded for it but in the end it will be worth more. I think I'm gonna underdrive it to 6 pounds of boost. That would put it around 850hp. Should be more then enough with less chance of breaking things.
I found a cool dash I'm gonna get.
That will help allot.
I don't like the dash now.
I'll keep you posted.
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That is such a SWEET Ride!
Best of luck in your efforts. I really like the subframe approaches. Something almost makes we want to tear it all out and start again. But alsa, I'm on the road for 5-6 months, so I'll wear that idea off before I get back -- I hope.
Nice Job - very nice. I'll follow progress here and over on VM. Have you checked in at the MAKO forum too?
Cheers - Jim
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No didn't know there was one. Didn't come up in any searches I've done. Got a link ?
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Looks like a Franklin short track quick change. Their not known for being super strong. Most quick changes are kind of limited by their pinion being on center of the ring gear. This is because they are all based on the model A banjo rear end. The pinion being on center means they do not use hypoid gears. Hypoid gears require the pinion to be off center and rather than pull down the ring gear they push it back to rotate the wheels. All modern vehicles use Hypoids. Not quick changes no matter what brand. They use bevel gears or a hybred helical type gear for the final drive . The helical gear sets dont add as much strength as they quiet the gear howel. That is their weak link. There have been custom gear sets available that improves on the basic design. The limiting factor is there isnt enough room in them to put a large tooth count pinion in the case. Mine were all 4.10:1 The over all final drive ratio can be changed easly with the change gears.. The ring and pinion cant be changed as easy. I have been into hundreds of them. The ones with beveled gears are good for no more than 500hp if you are lucky.. The ones with helical cut gears are good for 700hp and that is if you are real lucky. They were built to go in sprint cars with a rough vehicle weight of 1500lbs. Their life will be shorter in a 3000lb car. There has been a whole lot of miss information of how strong these rears are. They tend to be a little brittle. They eat ring and pinions if you work them too hard. This information came from years of beating my brains out trying to keep them together, setting them up and running them. Most of whats available today is left over from the 50's and 60's so the metalurgy is inferior to what is available today.
Ask those who have accually run them and you will see I am right. They are a very coooool rear end system. They all have removable axle tubes and the bells can easly be set up with bearings for IRS applications. I had a Franklin QC spool I used in a sprint for years.The class use to be called Super modified. The center had a torque arm and a torque cuple with a brake shock or whats called a Jacobs ladder. Axle seals were in the bells. The hollow 2.5" tube went all the way through and rotated so the bird cages used sealed bearings. No point in using axle tubes if you dont need them. I used wide five hubs on that car.
Nice starting point. I agree about the dash. Funny how styles change. The steering wheel? I have always liked the way the 69-70 Sting rays looked stock. They are just one of those cars that look fast standing still. I have yet to see any one customize that body style and make an improvement. It always ends up being a laterel move or worse. Like the bubble flairs they use for road racing. Did the gull wing doors use rams to support their weight? Your picture shows you supporting the door to keep it open. Deffinately a sweet suspension.and a fun project.
Last edited by tyrellracing (12/14/2013 3:47 pm)
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Thanks for the info very useful. I going to keep it in the car and hope for good luck. I'm not planing on racing the car just having fun with it.
With the tires I'm going to run there not going to hook so I'd guess it should be OK.
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I wasnt trying to shy you away. Their a cool piece. I wouldnt replace it either. Just dont get carried away with HP. If you decide to put a 1000HP engine in it, Take it easy on the launch. After that its all fun. Sweet ride. Hope it works out being worth what you traded for it. I have stepped into projects similar to that and discovered what was sweet looking on the outside had an ugly side once I dug deeper. Good Luck!
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That is exactly what I'm finding with this one. I knew it needed some cracks fixed but finding lots of small things.
Like it has a brand new painless wiring harness that he just put it. It was such a mess I pulled the dash today and removed the complete harness. Going to reinstall it the right way and add a race car style switch panel.
It needs more then I thought to get it on the road but when its done it will be worth it.
I've always wanted a Corvette but never could afford one. And this one is over the top with the custom suspension.
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xtrmes wrote:
No didn't know there was one. Didn't come up in any searches I've done. Got a link ?
You Bet! Is a bit Obscure to find. Some interesting rides there and a very receptive group for all things MAKO:
Cheers - Jim
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It will be really cool ride.
You have the Dremel "tips" for those annoying fiberglass stress cracks - right? [Or, use a knife/box cutter] There are someYouTube videos to help out that if you don't.
Cheers - Jim
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