I forgot to post some pictures of my Jaguar IRS.  It's nothing fancy except for the vented disc brake upgrade.  The rotors were custom made by Hoerr Racing Prodcuts, the hats were made by a buddy from 7075 aluminum bar, and it is assembled using AN aircraft hardware.  I also made some spacers for the calipers out of 6061 which was pretty straightforward.  I finished it off with a set of EBC Redstuff pads, a braided stainless brake hose, a set of stiffer and lower King springs, KYB shocks, and all new rubber bushings.  It turned out really well!

























More info and pictures at my website:
http://www.buyrcars.com/jag.htm

Hmmmm, OK, probably not the right place to ask, but I cannot find a better one;

Is there a drawing / template available of the bolt parterns of the Jaguar IRS?

I have bought an old Chevy truck which I'm going to convert to a hot rod, and I consider using the Jaguar IRS as it is easily available here in Europe. (I'm also considering a Ford Crown Vic front set-up, that is a lot harder to come by, and irrelevant to this forum).

Cheers,

Hugo

Hi, thanks for the reply. I'd like to get rid of the cage, integrate into the chassis. So top-of-dif plate, lower axle suspension points on the diff, top coil-overs mounting points. I think that is it.

Hugo

I  just have to believe, an A-arm type LCA with a Watts link at top. Like posted on this thread. Will give the closest performance similar to a double wishbone design. The lower has no change of angle, (jounce/rebound) and pushes near center. It is a wisbone! Then the way the Watts is setup, closely neutralizes any change in angle with the two links. The front link cancels the rear link and vise versa. The only diff is your still sitting on the half shaft. I love the simpleness, it should have very little effects during acceleration and braking. I guess I may be rehashing an old issue.


http://members.boardhost.com/IRS/msg/1281640983.html

Ralphy

Last edited by Ralphy (11/03/2013 6:51 am)

I came across these pics the other day. Check out the uprights and halfshafts. Was the builder in need of clearance? I've never seen such elongated uprights!




Link

http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/shop-talk/17708-pin-drive-pins.html

Ralphy

Last edited by Ralphy (11/23/2013 5:46 am)

Yeah, I downloaded the pics at work. Then I blew them up..The HS's can't be but 6 to 8 inches long, camber inc. no?

http://www.tbucketeers.com/threads/asking-on-a-jag-rearend-again-part-2.11232/



The outer end of the dog bone looks to be inside the frame width. Typical Cobra frames allow enough room for a coil over outside the frame. And still give enough room for tire clearance through camber. I don't think the upright needed all that size. The IRS looks over narrowed.

He must have been planning to fit 12" plus wide tires into the rear. Some of the newer kits promote 12" wide, most kits are 10" max.

Last edited by Ralphy (11/24/2013 6:24 am)

It just seems to me that you would lose the effectivenes of the double (wide) LCA running back up to a near single point of attachment on the hub and it would also need a jointed connection to keep things from tool blocking. The design says extra wide wheels , just not seeing anything to keep them from wrapping up. One pic looks like some hadrware for a trailing link.... mounted to what? Pics to impress not detail I guess,LOL

Last edited by Digz (11/24/2013 10:42 am)

Digz wrote:

It just seems to me that you would lose the effectivenes of the double (wide) LCA running back up to a near single point of attachment on the hub ...

As I look at the LCAs - it appears there are duals - and can almost (believe) see a second strut in the photo from the "hub" - no doubyt welded that links to the forward shock and LCA. [I considered scribbling in a second Red strut, and Blue LCA - but it got too cluttered. The Gray box is the frame represented.]

Overall I'd say some weight loss in the dual LCAs vs Large Bone, but probably offset by some weight gain in the Upright/Hub/Spindle - thingie. Shocks seem to be in the standard location.  

Google away Ralphy!

Cheers - Jim

Ok that looks like it really. That hub set up sure makes it look like the geometry would be wrong though the way the pics hide things.

COOL find Ralphy!  Those have to be the most elongated uprights I have ever seen. They look like they were intended for wheels with a whole lot of back spacing.  Half of the pin drive wheels I have seen at the track were three piece modular wheels. The sky is the limit on them as far as back spacing go's.  The stub axle must be 14" long for that set up to work. The length would put a great deal more load on the U-joints and lower control arms due to the increase in distance between the wheel mount location and the pivots.  That aside the work looks sanitary.

Last edited by tyrellracing (11/25/2013 3:55 pm)

On another note, that frame, right at front of the rear kick up on the 45 degree weld? Damn if I'm missing something, but is that cheesy looking! Scary!



This is how mine and many other kits are done.


Ralphy

Last edited by Ralphy (11/27/2013 5:01 pm)

What you end up with for PSI will be determined by the bore of the M/C. The bore/stroke of the master will depend on flow requirements needed to keep a decent pedal hieght. I do not know the specs on the Jag calipers for that year and haven't gotten that far on my build with the mid 80's one I have in the works. I have done non Jag conversions to rear disc using a 1" bore M/C with good results. An 1-1/8" bore would be a bit more pedal for me if I thought it was needed but would need more leg at the pedal. The math is tedious but doable to figure out what you need. Perhaps one of the guys have some decent links for it. Boosters do not really increase the pressure so much as to make it easier on the driver to apply it. They enable larger bore M/Cs that move more fluid to be more comfortable to use. You proabaly know all this already anyway. but the residual valves would keep 2lbs of pressure on the calipers already , so to say it takes 800lbs to activate them sounds goofy to me. jm2c
Edit: Being a Pick Up and firewall mounted residuals would probably not be needed.

Last edited by Digz (5/11/2014 5:47 am)

Digz, I just saw your post. I agree 800 psi actually sounds pretty high at the rears. Remember this larger pistons at the caliper equal more braking force and more travel at the pedal. A larger piston on the master cylinder equals less force, meaning you'll have to push harder to stop. But less travel. It pushes more fluid decreasing travel but you have to push harder.

Typicall MC's for Cobra guys are 3/4", some even use 5/8".

Guys that track their cars use a porportioning valve like the one below. It's a six position lever so you can fine tune the rears for those really hairy turns and remove locking of the rears. Set up so you can change while driving. As the Wilwood rep said, you want to stop a car with the rears as much as possible. So you limit upsetting the front end. However the fronts do most the work.


The propotion valve adjuster sets where it kicks in. Before this point it flows 100%. Once it reaches it's set point it halves any increases. So say it's set at 500 psi, once you reach 500 if you pdal what would be 600. You'll get 550 psi.

Here's where someone charted the valve The intersect point is where the proportioning valve is set to kick down line pressure. Line pressure increases at 50% from that point.


I know your talking using a booster but all this still applies. As Digz said it's only an assist.

Ralphy

Last edited by Ralphy (5/11/2014 6:20 am)

Check out the Jag IRS in Bodie Stroud's '31 Plymouth project gallery.
http://bodiestroud.com/project?album=2&gallery=13