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Well my progress is almost none. However I'm finishing up the cross drilling of my rotors today.
Mazak makes a great machine, I'm reaming the holes to finish diameter. LOL!
Ralphy
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Are you using a template? If so, where did you get the template from?
Thanks!
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303Radar wrote:
Are you using a template? If so, where did you get the template from?
Thanks!
No, I work as a machinist. I programed the pattern.
After a little consideration, it appeared to me I needed to work from the center of the pad area radius. Thay way I could increase or decrease the distance inward and outward in order to achieve the proper clearances.
Total 40 holes with a five hole pattern. On C3 rotors there are 40 vents.
Sorry,
Ralphy
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Ralphy -
Feel Like doing some more C3 rotors? Are you doing those on "lunch break?"
Sounds like the way to attack that prroject.
Cheers - Jim
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I could, I'll try and post some pics.
I suppose you want front and rears done?
Ralphy
Last edited by Ralphy (3/07/2013 4:26 pm)
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I'd like to see some pics just for S&G. I admire other folks handy work and interpretation on work.
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Mine
Last edited by Ralphy (3/10/2013 8:29 am)
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Damn that was a BIT**. Using computers are getting harder for me.
I haven't cleaned them up yet. We have a bead blaster with a very fine media. Do you think I could shoot the whole thing, brake area and all? Holes are .250 my thought was to keep off the edges a bit.
Here's a recent pic from another site.
Not Mine
Ralphy
Last edited by Ralphy (3/10/2013 8:30 am)
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Those look great Ralphy. As for blasting a fine media is less likely to make the surface uneven but glass beading would probably be better.
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Day thanks, that's actually what I meant, I think.
Ralphy
Last edited by Ralphy (3/10/2013 9:59 am)
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Ralphy wrote:
303Radar wrote:
Are you using a template? If so, where did you get the template from?
Thanks!
No, I work as a machinist. I programed the pattern.
After a little consideration, it appeared to me I needed to work from the center of the pad area radius. Thay way I could increase or decrease the distance inward and outward in order to achieve the proper clearances.
Total 40 holes with a five hole pattern. On C3 rotors there are 40 vents.
Sorry,
Ralphy
Besides symetrical placement, pattern design is critical to avoid the discs from cracking.
Maybe it's better to just copy and existing pattern?
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That's somewhat what I did, as far as placement from the edges.
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Ralphy - gonna look real nice.
I have never looked closely at those comercial sets of pre-drilled with the "groves" maybe some advantage in cooling? Probably a difficult and more risky path to take -- yours look fine as drilled.
Just picked up an air compressor and 100# of soda to start blasting myself. But gotta get an electrician in here to wire me a socket! Bugger!
Me - I'd clean the entire rotor.
Cheers - Jim
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My understanding is that a gas can build up between the pad and rotor. The groove is supposed to be an exit for the gas. Maybe someone knows different?
Ralphy
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Ralphy - I've heard that about a gas build up. Not that I've paid a lot of attention but one of the critisms I once heard about cross drilling was it weakens the rotor. While I was thinking it over, saw a claim of, it can't weaken them very much, after all, cross drilled rotors hold up very well at the 24 hours of Le Mans. Where every car gets about five years of abuse in a day.
After that, I decided cross drilled alone would hold up to anything I could dream of.
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I own a C5 Corvette. I have been doing a bunch of upgrades to the suspension like ditching the transverse leaf spring/shocks in favor of adjustable coilovers. About a year ago I picked up new cross drilled and slotted rotors with ceramic pads. More so for cosmetic reasons and to lessen the brake dust and rust issues I was having with the factory setup. In my research on rotors I found that most people that track their cars often go with a slotted only rotor. That the cross drilled rotors crack from the high heat buildup of Autocross & HPDE driving. Yet the guys who drive mostly on the street and the occasional track day don't report issues with cross drilled rotors.
I would guess in todays races that most of those Le Mans cars are running carbon type rotors so hard to compare to what we install on these cars. Plus you are talking about the rear brake which I wouldn't think gets used as much but then again they are known to heat up due to being next to the diff.
I'm sure you will be just fine. Keep it up, they look great.