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Thought I would start this post with a weld header.
Anyhow, I've been under an assumption my little Lincoln 110 volt welder was not going to get it done. Been looking around at used and new. Really like the price point of the Hobarts. So last night I finally broke out my Lincoln SP-100 and loaded the .035 flux core wire. Boy keep some drag on the spool of wire and don't cut it loose till your ready to load it. So I find on my chart inside the welder settings for flux core with thicker metals, change over to negative polarity, set the heat and feed moderately low? Hmmm...... Mother fu......dge! Damn, now that's what I'm talking about! I am just amazed at how much more heat is soaked into the steel. So much so, I tried a thinner gauge 1/16 piece and blew a hole right thru it. Plus very little splatter and no gas. In this setup, it's not the same welder, that drastic. So now I will get a bit more practice before cutting loose. Wire in this setting seems to almost vanish into the base metal. I have read needing to make multiple passes. A co-worker also gave me an auto dark helmet. 
Oh, one other thing, I also read this configuration is more forgiving with impurities, rust, scale, etc...
Ralphy
Last edited by Ralphy (11/15/2012 7:52 am)
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I've found as long as I keep a good battery in my auto dark helmet, it is an AWESOME and necessary piece of equipment. I have a stick welder from 1980 which was left in the box untouched after my dad passed away.
I need practice before moving on to a MIG setup like you've got.
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I've got an old Lincoln stick welder too -- used it a bit on some big stuff. Then got a 110V Lincoln wire-feed. WOW, no comparison. Now I need to invest the time to get proficient at it. The tool is well beyond my capabilities (for now anyway ;) )
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From what I saw on a Lincoln video. With a standard non flux wire, you push the weld. Then with flux core you drag, doing the opposite. Being you have to stay out f the slag. Wire is not that hard. If you can stick weld, you can wire weld, it's easier.
Welcome ncolz.
Ralphy
Last edited by Ralphy (11/15/2012 3:28 pm)
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I've got a Lincoln Weld Pak 180HD. It's a 220 unit and has been fantastic. I have a tank setup for it but have just been using flux-core so far. I'm about to switch over for the Chassis work I'm about to start though.
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The thing I hated with the limited amount of time I had arc welding, starting a new rod. A new rod is so long it's so hard to control till you burn down a bit. A MIG gun is so much shorter.
Iron Maiden so when going to chassis are you going to be welding a heavier gauge steel? Because that's my issue, I can't weld thicker in a standard setup. Seems maybe backward from my thinking?
I just turned down a guy with a Hobart 187 for $550.00 yesterday. He says like new. I would like to buy it, however I don't need to part with my money if I can help it.
Ralphy
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The welder I have is actually my buddies.He's a welder by trade, he works on bridges, buildings and all that good stuff. I've been using the flux-core wire for fabbing parts and what not. So far up to 1/4" mild steel without any problem.
I've wanted to switch over to the solid wire and gas simply because I have yet to try it and there is less splatter and the parts would be easier to clean up afterwards. In asking him and the building Maintenance guy I work with at UPS about flux-core or solid wire and gas..... both told me to go with the solid wire and gas for my chassis welding. 20K tensile strength -vs- 70K with the solid wire. My welder buddy asked one of his co-workers who happens to be a welding teacher at a junior college here in town and he said the same thing. So while I am the rookie who has no clue, I'm listening to the guys who do this stuff everyday. If I had a Tig setup I'm sure I would be using it but the Migs are so easy to use. Plug it in and go!
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I have a Lincoln weld pack 100 with gas and I love it. I have done up to 1/4" with it using gas and non fluxcore wire. Obviously at 1/4" I am pushing the limitations of the machine, so most of what I do in 1/4" is non structural. If I do have something structural to weld in thicker stuff I bevel the edges or weld over a corner to insure good penetration. The most important thing I have found with a 110 welder is a good dedicated circuit with no other power draws on it. Also if you must use an extension cord use as short of a one as you can and make it a high amp cord.
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I agree Daze. Although I use a 220 unit. I had an electrician buddy of mine come over and install 2 dedicated 220's for me. One in the garage, and one outside the garage. I do not use an extention at all. And like you, when welding, I almost always bevel the edges.
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Came across these today, a more clear line of sight.
Lincoln Electric Flux-Cored Welding Nozzle $3.97 /EA-Each
Ralphy
Last edited by Ralphy (11/17/2012 6:55 pm)
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It should also help keep the extra slag from collecting in the gap and clogging things, Good find , think I'll try one.
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Finishing up today pulling a dedicated 20 amp line in the garage. Couldn't have been any easier being that my electric panel is there. Pulled out an old stereo receiver and bought a Bluetooth adapter. Wireless music in the garage now and I can listen to some hometown radio over I Heart Radio.
Digz I bought that Nozzle. It's some type of rubberized piece, it leaves app. 3/8" of the tip protruding.
Wanting to oval bend just the ends of 1" OD tube. Thought I would make a mandrel to fit the 3/4" ID, heat the end and tap the mandrel in. Anyone ever try this? These ends will be welded, I'm looking to shorten a front UCA by 5/8".
Something like this on the end, not as drastic.
Bluetooth Music Receiver
Have a great holiday!
Ralphy
Last edited by Ralphy (11/21/2012 6:55 am)
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Good video on why to stay away from high carbon steels when welding. Better left to the pros.
Welding Race Cars.mp4
Ralphy
Last edited by Ralphy (11/22/2012 7:31 am)
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Well I'm almost finished with my next project, I plumbed my garage for air. Took a bit more work than I expected. Being I'm space limited I have what I guess is called a contractors compressor. I put it up out of the way on a high shelf and plumbed off it into the attic. Going around upstairs I ran a drop at each side of the garage door with drains below. I also ran a second line into the attic, the second has a shut off. This line goes to a 5 gallon portable tank I plumbed in, so I can add volume if wanted. Also I can remove it and take it on the road. I'm going to enclose the compressor so it's unseen. I also pulled a 110 volt line with a easily reachable on/off switch. Looks good but not tested yet.
Ralphy
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