|
|
|
 |
 |
 |
You are not logged in. Would you like to login?
This forum is hosted for free by Boardhost. Create your own free forum!
Offline
I tacked in my center mount for m Jag rear suspension. I fabbed it with urethane inserts. As such the mount has some minor flex. Will this be a problem? 
I plan to run both control arms to the lower pivot spreader bars and torque arms forward to the transmission mont.
Offline
Most third party vendors have a urethane bushing. For example, the one I picked up from Snow White industries has one:
I would expect the bushing to flex minimally and be barely noticeable.
Last edited by 303Radar (9/20/2012 3:34 pm)
Offline
btt
Thread StarterOffline
I'm setting up pretty much the same way. Just seems right to have at least one end of any of the frame connections bushed. The bushings I'm using are not very flexible but in my mind letting the whole thing "Float" a tiny bit wouldn't be a bad thing. I may have to re- inforce my trans mount a bit yet to feel comfortable on that end.
Offline
I'm trying to figure this out as well. I planned on just picking up 2 poly bushed shackle hangers like these without the zerk fittings.
What I have yet to decide on is to use them like above. 1 bushing/mount on the front side and 1 on the backside of the crossmember welded to the top plate that bolts to the top of the pumpkin. Or, solid mount the pumkin to the crossmember and use the poly mounts at the ends of the crossmember to secure to the frame rails.
Either way the crossmember will bolt to the frame rails as I want the rear suspension to be able to drop out as one unit. Question is which way would be better. Or maybe even use 4 of them and have it poly bushed at 4 points.
Another question I have is about the box tubing for the crossmember. I have about 20 feet of 2x2x 1/8 box tubing. I picked it up thinking it would fine for the transmission Xmember and the Jag rear Xmember. Is the 1/8th wall tubing good enough or should I be using 1/4"???
Offline
On my current build I am using this mount with UHMP bushing and radius rods to the frame for something different.
On my previous projects I have the diff mounted direct to the frame without any issues. 26k miles on the 33 Vicky and 80k kms on the 52 F1.
Offline
IRON MAIDEN wrote:
Another question I have is about the box tubing for the crossmember. I have about 20 feet of 2x2x 1/8 box tubing. I picked it up thinking it would fine for the transmission Xmember and the Jag rear Xmember. Is the 1/8th wall tubing good enough or should I be using 1/4"???
The .120 wall (1/8th) tubing should be sufficient for almost any project need. The aftermarket crossmember I bought is .120 wall. .120 wall is used on almost every application.
Offline
Thanks, for whatever reason I started second guessing myself on using it. Now I just need to find a good place to buy my heim joints, tube for the trailing arms, clevis ends.....
Just havn't decide on how I'm going to mount the crossmember and center section. poly bushings for the crossmember to frame points or poly bushings for the differential to crossmember point. Or both.
Offline
Thanks, for whatever reason I started second guessing myself on using it. Now I just need to find a good place to buy my heim joints, tube for the trailing arms, clevis ends.....
Might I suggest a scan of the following thread:
I recall posting some Heims - but not all sources. "Rod Ends" is one good source but there are others. I'd stay away from some of the eBay sources. Cheap parts for fitment - maybe - but not useful for hard use I'd think. Sloppy tolerances in some - just my experience.
Cheers - Jim
Offline
Offline
What size rods fit in the inner pivots so I can be ready to line up the trailing arm mounting points?
Offline
Would aluminum rods be strong enough? I found these that are reasonable and would look sweet. I could get a couple shorter ones for the torque stays.
Offline
Does this answer your question?
M&W Aluminum Products, INC. designs and manufactures the components, and systems in this catalog and web site for use by professional race teams and drivers, on purpose built race cars.
THERE ARE NO COMPONENTS IN THIS CATALOG AND WEB SITE DESIGNED FOR OR INTENDED TO BE USED ON STREET VEHICLES.
Ralphy
Offline
I read that too. But doesn't always tell the story. I'm sure their lawyers have a play in that too. If aluminum is not strong enough, so be it. I would think it would be. I look at all the suspension parts on my Corvette and think why wouldn't it be. Off road /4X4 parts have the same disclaimer. Yet their parts would be 10X as strong as their OEM counterparts.
Offline
I'll stay with steel. Remember also those cars are pretty light. Aluminum I think would tend to flex easier also. More maintenance would be needed, at least visual checks. Florescent Particle Inspection at best. Aluminum does crack.
Plus at the level I'm looking at, am I really worried at removing that much un-sprung weight?
Ralphy
Last edited by Ralphy (9/26/2012 9:00 pm)
Offline
They have swedged steel rods as well.
Offline
Having seen Aluminum on a variety of suspension components for rock crawlers and other extreme off road vehicles, I would expect it would be strong enough for any street use.
Offline
I'm thinking it is. There is a guy on Hamb that used them on his Jag rear install and has been a regular at the drag strip. No issues. His are only 40" long but I will do the 4 footers as I have a ton of room.
1 of 1