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I was looking at this pic Ralphy posted on the Jag thread
I know that it is not as good as an upper watts, I get that, but I also know that it was an effective way to partially stabilize the hub and eliminate some of the wheel hop. Makes sense that is why a shock is added to truck steering to stabilize it. My concern with this set up is shocks tend to work one direction more easily than the other, in other words compression is not quite the same resistance as extension, SOO what if a person used two and put them on opposite sides?? I realize they would both be compressing or extending together as the hub moved up and down BUT when the hub tries to twist one would be compressing and the other would be extending which should improve the concept even more. Also I think it would help eliminate some of the suspension movement created by torque at the wheel. thoughts????
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Daze,
Isn't that shock also setup in the softest direction? Meaning, shocks normally have a higher dampening effect with regard to jounce? His setup would pull the shock not compress it. The pic shows the shock to the aft of the chassis. I have seen the shock setup on a FFR Cobra with a 9" ford rear. The guy building the car was a Georgia Tech grad. Who built at least 5 FFR's for others. He also freelanced work for Panoz. Not the same animal however running a four link.
Also the orange car with the fore and aft Watts. Can the pivot on the bone be moved upward to fit other car platforms?
Last edited by Ralphy (3/21/2012 8:26 am)
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I just assumed that was the front but I think you are correct and he does have it on the back side. I may have to go that route because I don't have room for the upright on the hub. If I do it however I will run 2 shocks per side not just one.
Ralphy wrote:
Also the orange car with the fore and aft Watts. Can the pivot on the bone be moved upward to fit other car platforms?
I don't think there is enough room between the wishbone and the half shaft to move the pivot much.
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I am pretty sure shocks can be ordered with any valving desired. Steering stabilizer shocks are valved the same for both directions other wise the trucks using one shock would steer stiffer in one direction than the other. I have seen the kit Ralphy posted before and I thought I had read that the valving of the shocks in their kits were set equal in both directions and ultra firm. Has any one e-mailed them to see what range of shock valving they have available with their kit? It seemed like a good idea to me to use shocks to dampen undesirable frequency's that generate wheel hop.
Last edited by tyrellracing (3/21/2012 4:25 pm)
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In general it should be helpful IF fore/aft motion is involved (which it most likely is) and IF it is not positioned at a resonance node. Just going on instinct I would expect the node to be either at the hub or at the LCA pivot point, and even possibly at the LCA inner pivot or differential centerline. Possibly even at the opposite side attachment points (mounts). There can be multiple nodes.
It will work best if located at a resonance peak, and mounting it as high as is practical is probably going to work best as long as it doesn't go above the peak, which seems unlikely in this case.
Jim
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Kinda funny, if something is misaligned it's called a bind. But if you were to add that damper, it's viewed as a suspension enhancement. Just saying. So I guess it's unwanted drag/load that qualifies as a bind.
As one of Conan O'Brien's earlier skits went, "Things That Make You Go Hmmm........" LOL!
Last edited by Ralphy (3/22/2012 4:11 pm)
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Aw c'mon now Ralphy, are we that hard up for something to talk about? I'm sure you know a bind is something moving in a way it isn't made to, and putting excessive force where it doesn't belong and a damper is, well just a damper.
Jim
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Just on the lighter side, I know.
Called cynical humor.
I tried searching DCE and found nothing.
Looking at the pic again. I see DCERA-JAG.
ERA is a Shelby kit company, must just be a member ID. I guess he made a few up and was selling them on the board.
Here's his post
67Jet, I got your message. Here is the kit I developed a few years back, it's also pictured in my gallery. I might have two kits left stored away, if I can find them. The final result eliminated about 70% of the violent hop, but not all hop. The rest of it I was able to smooth out more with other dampning tuning and rear ride height adjustments. The next step is to scale and re-align the car. This kit was developed to minimalize modification impact to the chassis and components. Requires a few special tools and integration with other mounts. With this, my car definitely plants the rear harder and launches better now but CAUTION: I don't launch from a dead start after breaking my differential gears and stub axles for my second 1/4 mile test. I ended upgrading to new hardened stub axles and spider gears after I put this kit in. Duane
Last edited by Ralphy (3/22/2012 5:04 pm)
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