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I haven't posted in a while but some may remember me from a past post on shortening a Maserati rear end. That ended up not being the best rear end to run super narrow since the center section is a little wider than the Jag unit. That's because it has those big 7/8" rotors. Anyway, I took my Jag rear in for shortening a few months ago. Yesterday I picked it up from Hamilton Automotive Industries in Van Nuys California. It looks great.
It's 48 1/4" wide and has 3:54 posi. It's going under a Hillman Husky. Here are some pictures. 
Thanks, Doug
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Doug,
Looks great! Nice package. That represents alot of effort there. The axles look stout.
I'm curious. Since the differential is set in the frame work in relation to the lower control arms, what pinion angle did you choose?
Ken
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Any idea how much travel you get before the u-joints bind?
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that looks fantastic!!! What are you coilovers going to be and how many are you going to run??? What do you have planed for trailing arms???
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6 speed wrote:
Doug,
Looks great! Nice package. That represents alot of effort there. The axles look stout.
I'm curious. Since the differential is set in the frame work in relation to the lower control arms, what pinion angle did you choose?
Ken
Guys, keep in mind I'm learning all this stuff so if my answers are vague it's because I'm just not sure. The rear end was built to the specs of the stance of my car. I can tell you that before anything is welded in place I get buy off from the guy that built this and he's been doing it since 1967. He explains all the geometry needed...I remember little of what he tells me. So when it's time to take the next step I get him on the line and make sure I'm doing it all right.
I believe the pinion angle will be in the 4 degree range. Right now it's set up to mount the cage parallel to the ground. That may change a little when I figure out where the engine sits and the angle it sits at. He says we can get away with as little as a two degree angle.
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Any idea how much travel you get before the u-joints bind?
With the 48" width travel is restricted so binding won't be a problem....knock on wood.
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that looks fantastic!!! What are you coilovers going to be and how many are you going to run??? What do you have planed for trailing arms???
I'll be using 4 coilovers. I'm waiting on having everything loaded in the car (engine. tranny, gas, etc) so I can weigh the four corners of the car to determine what spring rate to get. The guy that did the rear end for me told me to get Romex shocks. I'm sure I heard him. Is there a brand that sounds like Romex?
I'll be using at least 40" radius arms...extending forward and the front mounting point being 1.5" above the rear mounting point.
Last edited by dlyle (2/21/2012 9:33 pm)
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Do you know if Hamilton Ind. Had your brakes Cadmium plated or is that a type of powder coating? The whole set up looks very well done. Clean TIG welds through out. Do you know If Hamilton made the half shafts or did they have a drive shaft shop sub contract them. The yokes are sum what rare welded to what looks like 2.5 dia tube I have been looking for Chev drive lines to shorten in a small diameter but cannot find anything smaller that 3"
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Do you know if Hamilton Ind. Had your brakes Cadmium plated or is that a type of powder coating? The whole set up looks very well done. Clean TIG welds through out. Do you know If Hamilton made the half shafts or did they have a drive shaft shop sub contract them. The yokes are sum what rare welded to what looks like 2.5 dia tube I have been looking for Chev drive lines to shorten in a small diameter but cannot find anything smaller that 3"
The brakes are cad plated and as you noticed it's all nicely TIG welded. Curt Hamilton did make the half shafts. He explained how it was done.....rosette welds, blah blah blah....I can't remember it all but it sounded time consuming. The bottom line is I wanted something bullet proof and I think I found it. If you want Chevy driveshafts call Curt. He'll tell you what you need to do or can do them for you.
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Very Cool! Building the Half shafts isnt an issue for me ,its finding the small yokes that accept Chev 1 ton u-joints. Spicer sells the ones I want but they want 40 bucks each and I just cannot justify spending 160 on yokes when I can usually get drive shafts for 10 bucks each. I just need to keep looking and t be patient. The forged Jag. Half shafts are strong but heavy and half their weight is unsprung. (that's a bad thing) Every ounce counts! .
Again, Kudo's Hamilton did a super job on your IRS and I hope the installation goes as smooth. The Cad plating is sweet.
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Here's what the IRS is going in to. 
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KOOL! looks like a fun project! Steering wheel looks a little high to me. LOL Is the old hemi rebuilt ?
Last edited by tyrellracing (3/07/2012 7:03 am)
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Very cool! I am pleased to see someone else using a Curt Hamilton cage for their IRS.
Last edited by irstang (3/10/2012 12:02 am)
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KOOL! looks like a fun project! Steering wheel looks a little high to me. LOL Is the old hemi rebuilt ?
Yes it does. It's not attached to anything. I think I was in the middle of pulling the column out of the car in that picture. The Hemi is done and rebuilt. Built it just a little above stock so its 400+ HP.
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