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With enough time and viewing other designs. I have come to realize I will need to add more support for my C3 differential. The original C3 design sets the vehicle weight, through the carrier from the leaf springs. I will no longer be using a leaf spring, going to coilovers. My only mountings would be from the top of the rear cover above and in front of the pinion. So far I believe the weakest point is at the rear of the differential bottom. Cornering will push the carrier from side to side. My solution is to make maybe 1" to 1" plus diameter tubes with heims at the ends. I will attach these braces from the frame to the lower back diff at a V shape. Still thinking I may want to do something similar at the front of the carrier.
Last edited by Ralphy (11/21/2011 10:22 am)
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Found a pic, here is where I'm going.
Last edited by Daze (11/21/2011 6:28 pm)
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I would do it on both the front and the rear. I plan on putting similar supports on my set up. mine will be removable on both ends to make maintenance easier.
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Ralphy - That looks like a great idea - and doing the front end might be a good idea too.
Hey -- That looks kinda' like the subframe I'm designing for my C3! I'm going to keep the dual mount leaf spring mount the tabs to the section between the front and rear uprights (like the rear you show here).
Naturally the top will tie into a crossmember as well - but I'm taking out the "typicall" C3 diff carrier and fabing a short segment to the rear frame member. A lot of words - when I get the picture done - it will be a better explaniation.
Cheers - Jim
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I bought an aluminum cover from Jeg's. I plan to use coil-overs. The design of the cover makes a great mounting point for a toe rod. I also see some budget clevis ends in the parts you listed Jim. Looks like Jeg's no longer sells a Corvette diff cover. Oop's I got it from Speedway Motors! LOL! I'm welding in a 1 3/4" cross tube to mount the housing cover above. I also realize once I remove the leaf spring the whole mechanics (load) changes. No longer is the differential trapped by vehicle weight. 
Ralphy
Last edited by Ralphy (12/28/2011 10:46 am)
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Ralphy -
you're moving on your build faster than I am!
That Clevis looks great in the picture -- I'll be dooing the same on outboard ends.
I ordered a couple of the drill rods/reamer blanks - to do a design/fit check.
Will report reaults when in.
Cheers - Jim
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Hi Ralphy,
I agree you need some support on the front end, as well. Here are some pictures of work in progress on my '65 Mustang. After I ran the tubes forward, I decided to add some gussets to tie the forward cross bar into the seat pans. Since these tubes tie into my solid mounted cage, they have the added benefit of stiffening the up the convertible body.
Last edited by irstang (2/14/2012 3:57 pm)
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They say, change is good.
In this case, they are wrong! 
Hard cornering would be one of my highest concerns also in this area. Frame rails twisting.
Ralphy
Last edited by Ralphy (2/06/2012 6:44 am)
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hey irstang got any bigger pix??
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Enlarged the pics above.
Here are some more pictures of my '65 Mustang. As you can see I have beefed up the "frame rails" with some 1/8" thick steel along the bottom and inside. The black tubular subframe connectors are some Maier Racing parts I purchased years ago. 
Last edited by irstang (2/14/2012 4:23 pm)
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