That might be a nice redundancy on the Jag set up.  The only trick would be to center it on the half shaft and then make sure the pivots are in line with the u-joints

Ralphy - neat find.  Clear on the splined half shafts required - but one thing that setup does add :
1.  Toe control - and,
2.  A good way to get a lower contact point on the hub/upright than you can get with A Arms.
Oops gues that maybe 2!
3.  Added redundancy - removes the half shaft for the "loaded suspension."


Cheers - Jim

Ralphy wrote:

With the links you would use a splined half shaft. I contacted the guy to see if he has any more pics.

I don't think so.  If you make the links parallel with the half shaft on ALL plains AND the inner and outer pivots of the upper link were in line with the u-joint pivots, than everything would be on the same arch and no sliding splines would be required.  I agree it would not ad any for and aft support, I am just looking at it as a possible way to reduce the issue people have with the half shaft being the UCA.  I think if I did it I would only add one link per side not two.

Everytime I see Pier'sC3 Hubs he fabbed:



They make me want to go out to the garage and do the caveman - chopsaw to my trailing arms and do a 4 link!
But I'm gonna wrestle the double wish anyway.  [BTW my hubs will be similar but 5x5 box channel not tube.]

Back to target - all those links are going to have to be  pretty close to SPOT ON to not wish he had slip joints. 
The 3D movements of all the linkage will all have to be in parallel vertical planes.  If they are not they'll likely force something.
Or maybe the  Jag doesn't have C-Clips or similar fastenings and  allow some slip?  CV Jointed shafts intended?

Cheers - Jim

Ant: Hope this works! Ant emailed me and sent these two pics and these messages.

This suspension isn't what I am going to end up with due to the Thunderbird upright upside down, I am going to have great difficulty getting it certified for the road.
I am going to turn it back right way up and see if I can modify the upper roll bar platform for top arm clearance, and I should be able to gain a bit with top arm design.

Another thing with this suspension is the top arm is almost as long as the bottom which isn't good, although we have a lengthening of the bottom arm, as I mentioned will have to do the numbers on it to see where the wheel goes through travel.

I replied: What a creative idea to flip the T Bird upright. Also where are your forward links attaching points?
I have a C3 Corvette design I am going to modify. We have an all IRS forum going. Do you mind if I post your pics? We are trying to explore all ideas. Join us at,  http://irsforum.boardhost.com/

Lots of picture ideas and talk.

I think the equal length is not good. Typical length I have heard is the upper app. 2/3 length of the lower. And wow yes you guys need everything certified by your government. I remember reading about that once.

Ant: One possible issue with the flipped upright is the weight of the car is on the single leg, and bearing breakout which is unlikely.  The top and bottom arms are similar to say JBL Cobra IRS chassis location with double wishbone.  Not a problem to post the pics.  Yep the equal length isn't that good.  Probably the hardest part in building a suspension system here is you have to draw what you intend building and they give what they think is the minimum thickness in a mild steel tube which maybe 3mm wall thickness and if you can do it in 2mm moly and prove to the panel it has the right strength you are away for about $55 and you can do several or all of the cars builds on the one application.

Will have a look at your forum.

Cheers Ant





http://s587.photobucket.com/albums/ss311/Willy12_2009/

So as you can see, the two upper links are not parallel to the half shaft. they are above. Not to sure about the strength.

Last edited by Ralphy (1/09/2012 6:33 pm)

I am using Porsche 108mm chromemoly CV joints on the Ford 8.8, with 300m Axles, going to chromemoly outer CV ball bearing type.
It would be ideal to have a radius rod going  forward like a large A arm but this is impractical in most Cobra builds.
I intend on doing a completely new removable sub frame in round tube, the inner pickup points will be further apart similar to the JBL Motorsports cobras.
It is worth noting I am a novice at suspension building  and will be doing quite a bit of research before embarking on building parts.