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Spent the afternoon helping a friend pull a complete assembly from an '80 XJ6 at the pick-n-pull, minus the trailing arms; they were well and truly stuck to the car and nothing short of a torch or a sawzall was going to get them loose. Normally I like to carry my battery sawzall around for jobs like this, we'd have just taken a six-inch square of floorpan around the mount cone, but alas all its battery packs have croaked and I haven't yet replaced them.
Fortunately, there were some other cars around that someone else had already been through, both an XJS and an early '90s XJ40 had rearend bits all over the ground, so the XJS trailing arms and the XJ40 outboard-brake hub carriers were already pretty much laying on the ground. 
Couple comments:
a) It wasn't the worst junkyard job I've ever worked on but it's clear I need some better tool cartage.
b) The inner end of the XJ40 lower control arm is only an inch or so wider than that of the earlier cars. They did, however, reorient the outer (hub-carrier) pivot, so that when viewed from the side it's no longer parallel to the inner pivot, presumably for anti-squat. I didn't have a chance to see whether they'd done anything else to the inner pivot orientation. By my untrained-eyeball guesstimate I'd bet the XJ40 rear suspension cost Jag 30% less to make.
c) The XJ40 hub carriers are considerably beefier, they have a lot more reinforcing webbing cast into them, it would probably be worth using them (aesthetics aside) even if you were retaining the inboard brakes. The good news is that at this pick-n-pull, at least, XJ40s are very common - there's half a dozen intact ones out there. On this day the car we pulled the cage from was the only intact early XJ out there, but typically there's two or three.
d) The XJ6 had conventional solid discs but the XJS had odd discs that looked like a stack of plates.
e) Unfortunately the job took long enough that we weren't able to raid the inventory of mid '90s Astros for their Hydroboosts.
This is all intended to be built up onto a cradle/crossmember somewhat similar to what Daze has done, for installation into a '66 Falcon sedan. I suspect he'll be popping his nose in here sooner or later.
Last edited by JEM (11/19/2011 8:44 pm)
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those are some great pix and I really appreciate the side by side observations, that helps a lot. If you don't mind my asking what kind of a price did you get all that for and if I wanted to get another seat of out board disc hubs would you be willing to pick them for me and how much $$$ ??? I would need the hubs and the stub axles, but not the entire half shaft.
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a) It wasn't the worst junkyard job I've ever worked on but it's clear I need some better tool cartage.
I'm just glad that bolt broke off the driveshaft so I didn't have pay for *that* too...
This is all intended to be built up onto a cradle/crossmember somewhat similar to what Daze has done, for installation into a '66 Falcon sedan.
A coworker has a shop and has offered the use of his tube bender to fabricate a cage for this, so after getting it in place and taking a million measurements we'll head to his place and come up with a plan. Unfortunately, he doesn't have room to take the car itself over, so it'll be interesting to see how things pan out.
I suspect he'll be popping his nose in here sooner or later.
Yeah, yeah, twist my arm 
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Daze wrote:
those are some great pix and I really appreciate the side by side observations, that helps a lot. If you don't mind my asking what kind of a price did you get all that for and if I wanted to get another seat of out board disc hubs would you be willing to pick them for me and how much $$$ ??? I would need the hubs and the stub axles, but not the entire half shaft.
About $500 for the whole mess which seems to be somewhat reasonable from what little I've been able to dig up. The yard dinged me for the extra shafts and hubs, about $70 each, and of course all the parts like disc brakes and calipers have core charges. If we can manage to get the axles and brake parts off it might be cheaper, it's hard to tell with this place.
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bacomatic, WELCOME TO THE FORUM!!! Any friend of JEM's is welcome here... of course that is really not saying much, you could be an enemy of JEM and as long as you were interested in IRS you would be welcome here
Thats not a bad price, If I could get them at that price or for a little less I would be interested.
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bacomatic, WELCOME TO THE FORUM!!! Any friend of JEM's is welcome here... of course that is really not saying much, you could be an enemy of JEM and as long as you were interested in IRS you would be welcome here
Well, I keep pushing him further down the slippery slope. Think we're friends now, but heaven knows in another year.
Thats not a bad price, If I could get them at that price or for a little less I would be interested.
The issue with pick-n-pulls is always the cost relative to the effort of getting the thing out.
For something like a Jag or 'Bird/Lincoln rear suspension it can be a decent value proposition. If you luck into a '96-97 Explorer V8 the $240 ($180 plus "core charge") for the engine - which gets you a GT40 intake and iron GT40 heads, plus (if it fits in your application) by far the best front-end accessory drive Ford ever put on a Windsor - is a steal, even if the engine is nothing more than a core. It's about a two-hour job to get the engine out, if you're properly caffeinated and have the right tools.
And if you happen to be doing this on one of the (unfortunately increasingly rare) half-price weekends, you might just feel like you won the lottery.
If you're doing a headlight-relay circuit with a VW headlight relay, which gives you high/low dim and high-flash off a momentary ground contact (like the replacement turn-signal stalk I've got drafted in Solidworks but not turned into hardware yet...) the best source (oddly) for the relay (and, more importantly, its base socket which has long been NLA new) is the sunroof motor of certain '80s Audi 80/90s and VW Passats. Five minutes with a Torx bit and some wire cutters and you've just ticked off another VW Golf owner who was looking for parts to convert to a power sunroof, but it'd never be cost-effective to buy that bit from a full-scale dismantler - they're not going to sacrifice a $75 motor assembly sale for a $5 relay socket.
Likewise for the Servotronic variable-steering-assist module and its socket from the Catera - reach up under the dash, bend it back and forth for two minutes until the metal dash-structure prong it's attached to breaks, then cut the wiring loose and go. The headlight relay socket uses standard .250 AMP blade terminals, the Servotronic socket Metripack 280s.
But..for, say, the ZF steering box out of said Catera, it's a four-hour job to dig the thing out of the car in junkyard conditions. There's 40 pages of the things on car-part.com, I could have a dozen of them on my doorstep in a week for under $100 apiece shipped.
I think they hit him up for $50 each for the XJ40 hub/carrier/halfshaft/rotor/caliper assembly, plus "core" and taxes. I'd imagine that if you had to remove one from an intact car you'd be pulling the lower pivot bolt and the four halfshaft-flange retaining bolts, I'm not really sure how much work it is to get those flange bolts. It's not cost-effective to sit around in the yard tearing the hub down to get the stub axle out so you can take off (could you even do it with, say, C-clamps?) the halfshaft. It might be doable to get the things to you, but I also don't get the kind of UPS rates that a big shipper does...
Last edited by JEM (11/20/2011 10:04 pm)
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I wish I had junk yards like that around here. all my local yards want to charge the same price as new.
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