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on June 3, 2010, 6:29 pm, Daze wrote:
I got the transmission jack I ordered and used it to roughly position the differential in to place.
As you know I realized some time back that my cross bar design was going to be a problem because the parking brake sticks up past the top of the differential at the front but figured I would just go with a pinion mounted parking brake. After this mock up it was clear that a pinion mounted parking brake will not work as the pinion is to close to the transmission tunnel for the 8" rotor of said brake. So I am going to utilize the factory Jaguar parking brake and to make it work I have three options:
1. Mount the parking brake on the back side of the rotor and attach it to the back crossbar. Easy enough to do in theory, but getting the parts correctly located in relation to the rotor might be a challenge and an incorrectly located system is going to cause pore engagement or worse a sticking brake.
2. Mount the parking brake as designed to the caliper and build a cross bar similar to
picture courtesy of Håkan Östlund Jag install in a street rod.
The problem I have with doing that in my car is the mounting bolts would need to be over 4" long and thats a lot of leverage on the bolts. + I like the simplicity and strength of a solid piece rather than a welded piece.
3. notch the front cross support to clear the parking brake assembly and box it in. The back support is not in the way so I would have one solid cross beam. in order to get enough clearance two full sides of my rectangular tubing will need to be removed in the parking brake location and then boxed in creating a triangle tube. I am already planning on running a 1/4" plate across the top of both crossbars to tie them together and I think that along with the boxing should sufficiently reinforce the front crossbar where it was cut. This is the technique that I am leaning toward but I would love other opinions.
One thing I don't like is the 6º caster. The picture does not do it justice. I hate the fact that my options are to run a pinion angle that could cause u-jint problems, run the correct pinion angle and have 6º positive case or compromise. I want the correct pinion angle and I want the suspension to travel vertical. And I am going to have both!!! but that is another post some time next week after the big brown truck shows up at my house and I can take some pictures
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So would the 1/4" plate running across the top be welded to the tubing? If it was I can see that being a very strong solution.
Have you addressed ride heigth in your setup? It appears from the photo that the center section slams up against the tubing and that's where it's going to be ...
I am curious to see how you are going to resolve the pinion angle challenge.
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So would the 1/4" plate running across the top be welded to the tubing? If it was I can see that being a very strong solution.
yes, it will be welded solid to the tubes, and extend past the notches for the brakes mechanisms.
Have you addressed ride heigth in your setup? It appears from the photo that the center section slams up against the tubing and that's where it's going to be
Based on where the OEM differential originally sat in my Mustang and based on the pictures I got from Mustsed IRS/Mustang install I calculate the "correct" location for the differential with the hope of having the LCAs level at normal ride height. Then to dial it in the upper shock mounts will be adjustable so I can get the exact ride height I want.
I am curious to see how you are going to resolve the pinion angle challenge.
The pinion angle is perfect. the 6º up is almost parallel to the 5º down of the T5 and both parts are relatively well lined up so the angle of the drivline is not very steep.
My caster solution is something I have been working on for over a week to try and get it worked out and I will post the solution as soon as they arrive. As an aside, I do not think my solution will work for your application because of you using the cage. more to come
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