Great job.

Thanks for the link. I am one of the few here that is using a cage and I still have not finalized the cage support. This helped a lot.

I've been a fly on the wall ... you've been having some really good exchange with others. Your forum is my latest addiction ... can't get away from it. As far as the changes I have been trying to give it a little time. All in all not bad. The one thing I did like about the old forum was that the new messages appeared at the top. Now I have to scroll to the bottom to see what has been added, But if that worst of the best then you did a pretty good job.

My project still going slow ... the dam will bust loose soon.

Daze wrote:

I am actually using cage pieces to tie things together.  I have the bottom alignment plate as well as  two bottom sections of the cage that will go on the front and back, and then  I am going to weld two supports that come off of the front tie bar and are welded to a forward crossbar that is bolted to the frame rails.  These bars will act as pinion support, and give me a place to attach the sway bar.
Also I decided just the other day to ditch the rubber bushings at my front and rear mounting points and go with poly.  I know it will allow more vibration to inter the chassis but it will keep the suspension in much better location in under the car so I think it is a really good idea.  If I get to much vibration I will leave the poly at the front leaf spring mount, replace the shackle mount with rubber and then put rubber at the tie bar mount, but at this point it will be poly all the way around.

Looks good.  Nothing wrong with trying the poly bushings first.  The whole idea of what you are doing is to keep the diff from rotating and causing unwanted rear steer.  I would recommend that you get rid of the kink in your radius arms and keep them straight.  The angle between the longitudinal centerline of your car and radius arm should be 45 degrees or less, in my opinion.  The stress on the ends of the arms goes up by the inverse of the cosin of this angle.

irstang wrote:

I would recommend that you get rid of the kink in your radius arms and keep them straight.  The angle between the longitudinal centerline of your car and radius arm should be 45 degrees or less, in my opinion.  The stress on the ends of the arms goes up by the inverse of the cosin of this angle.

I have thought more about what you said,  and  the biggest issues is room.  I know that I can make it all fit but may have to have a slight bend in the trailing arms.  that got me thinking about all the other stuff in the area:

trailing arms
sway bar
exhaust
drive line

I am now thinking I may move the sway bar around to the back side of  the suspension. First of all that solves the issue of having to put the sway bar above or below the driveline.  Second  I can easily use the rear pinion support to make a mount for it that will position it a few inches under the fuel tank.  Not only does it give me more room but is should also help support the wishbones from the back side.  The trailing arms will take the brunt of the for and aft motion but the sway bar will also help.  Lastly it should look cool.