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8/25/2011 5:18 pm  #31


Re: Jag Rear With A Home Made Lower A Arm/Control Arm

I think you shim the inner mount to adjust toe. How else can you adjust the toe on the Arning? Day that pic looks different then Duane's unit. There is no room for shims. Maybe the mounts move?

Last edited by Ralphy (8/25/2011 5:21 pm)

 

8/25/2011 6:38 pm  #32


Re: Jag Rear With A Home Made Lower A Arm/Control Arm

Ralphy wrote:

Day that's frikin funny!

whats funny?? did I miss something??


If it isn't broken..... modify it anyway!!!!
 

8/25/2011 6:56 pm  #33


Re: Jag Rear With A Home Made Lower A Arm/Control Arm

Well, if you're going to depart entirely from the lower upright pivot I guess you can do whatever you like. For my part, I think I'm pretty well stuck with the basic Jag design, so there has to be something to control the torque generated at the hub by acceleration and braking which creates a twisting moment on the LCA. Just 2 separate links instead of the LCA won't handle that and I don't have room for a UCA or watts links.

So for my design I need to concentrate on the narrowest upright/halfshaft joint combo I can find, reducing unsprung weight while simplifying the LCA (incorporate the forward diagonal strut into the design) and POSSIBLY improve the geometry to take advantage of modern developments in roll steer and anti squat.

That's where this thread is interesting. If I could for example, rotate the LCA pivot axis x degrees to achieve roll steer and elevate the forward inside LCA pivot (or lower the rear inner pivot) x inches to achieve the proper amount of anti-squat it would be easy enough to incorporate that into the next prototype. But wouldn't those two mods just cancel each other out?

JB

 

8/26/2011 4:48 am  #34


Re: Jag Rear With A Home Made Lower A Arm/Control Arm

IRS vs. solid axle housing. With a solid housing when accelerating you get a wraping force trying to twist the rear upward in front.  So the lower forward link has a lot of force induced. This aids in anti-squat. With an IRS because the hubs are free and the carrier is bolted in place, you loose this torque effect. So anti-squat/anti-dive is less.

Anyhow any angle is better than none. But you also have to watch your wheel base change, you don't want the wheels moving to far back.

I've seen others add a forward shock above the half shaft to gain some strength.

Last edited by Ralphy (8/26/2011 5:06 am)

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8/26/2011 5:12 am  #35


Re: Jag Rear With A Home Made Lower A Arm/Control Arm

OK, engine torque is transferred to the body through the diff housing,  and so is braking torque, both trying to rotate the body around the CG and creating squat/dive. The acceleration/deceleration forces induce a twist on the upright and LCA (Jag) creating a counter (anti) squat/dive.  The upright makes a fairly long lever arm, roughly multiplying the force applied to the ground by 2 and converting that to rotational force. I haven't looked at the mathematics to see how much of the diff torque is offset by the upright torque, it depends on the dimensions, tire diameter, and distance from the diff centerline to the body (upper mount) but it would not surprise me to learn that they cancel out very closely.

Which brings up the same question: If the forces cancel is it a good idea to induce a jacking force at the upright? (up on acceleration, down on braking)

JB

Edit: Just as a note, observe that the IRS which has an UCA or watts link does not generate this anti-squat/dive force, meaning that the Jag design is inherently more well balanced.

Last edited by Jim Blackwood (8/26/2011 5:23 am)

 

8/26/2011 7:29 am  #36


Re: Jag Rear With A Home Made Lower A Arm/Control Arm

A Jag set up with only a LCA flat has no anti-squat. If you do have the anti-squat it can be tuned to add or remove as needed. Some Corvette racers move the trailing links to reduce anti-squat. Some rearward body roll helps coming out of a turn.

Stock C4
http://media.photobucket.com/image/c4%20anti%20squat/SuperL98new/BRK2.jpg

Here is a pic showing the bracket to alter a C4's anti-squat
http://www.corvettefever.com/techarticles/corp_1001_c4_suspension_rebuild/photo_06.html

Last edited by Ralphy (8/26/2011 7:38 am)

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8/26/2011 7:49 am  #37


Re: Jag Rear With A Home Made Lower A Arm/Control Arm

Yes of course. Trailing links, putting the instant center above the CG. But the Jag's inner pivots are darned near parallel to the ground, in some cases they are. So nothing will do but that at least one of the cars have to be driven and squat/dive carefully observed, measured if possible. Not sure exactly how you'd do that without accelerometers though.

JB

 

8/26/2011 9:28 am  #38


Re: Jag Rear With A Home Made Lower A Arm/Control Arm

Don't get me wrong guys. I'm not trying to tell anyone how to do their cars. I was just trying to point out what I think I have learned reading boards and articles. Your car has it's own quirks. I mentioned to Daze once I was going to build a suspension model. I think that would be the only way a guy at home could measure data at home. I have no software to run 3D modeling that can give data through motion.

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8/26/2011 9:36 pm  #39


Re: Jag Rear With A Home Made Lower A Arm/Control Arm

Ralphy wrote:

Could you guys post some good pics?

yeah, no worries, ill pull a wheel of at some stage and try and get some good pics of the angles

 

8/26/2011 10:44 pm  #40


Re: Jag Rear With A Home Made Lower A Arm/Control Arm

So neither of you have any thoughts on what I said earlier???

Daze wrote:

Here is another thought what if the rear steer was more about controlling suspension movement???  Think about it this way the rear tires are going to try to stay in line with the fronts so if the fronts are cornering the back tires will attempt to corner as well and that force that is turning the rear tire should be translated in to the suspension moving toward the position that would induce the same tire positioning.  same would be true when going strait the tires will try and remain in a forward position and will try and get back to that forward position after going over something that caused suspension travel which should in theory improve suspension reaction times and be some what self correcting.  thoughts???


If it isn't broken..... modify it anyway!!!!
 

8/27/2011 8:13 am  #41


Re: Jag Rear With A Home Made Lower A Arm/Control Arm

Day I agree about the cornering, I would think it would take less HP. Or a better way of saying it, there would be less rolling resistance.

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8/27/2011 8:56 am  #42


Re: Jag Rear With A Home Made Lower A Arm/Control Arm

Ralphy wrote:

Day I agree about the cornering, I would think it would take less HP. Or a better way of saying it, there would be less rolling resistance.

I am not talking about rolling resistance, although I agree it should be less.  I am talking about chassis positioning.  think of it kind of like a sway bar (I know totally different than what were talking about but illustrates my point)  If you have a wimpy sway bar and you hit a tight corner the inside wheel suspension will compress and the outside wheel suspension will extend so the car goes around the corner leaning.  In contrast however a thicker sway bar puts more downward force on the outside wheel than it gets with out it and this causes the whole front suspension to compress and creates less leaning as you corner.  Why could the same not be true of the rear steer???  if suspension compression causes the tire to toe, than the same should be true in reverse .  A tight corner should cause the tire to to which should compress the suspension.  See where I am going with this???


If it isn't broken..... modify it anyway!!!!
 

8/28/2011 1:54 am  #43


Re: Jag Rear With A Home Made Lower A Arm/Control Arm

I'm really not following you. First off I think you said it backwards. The outside compresses/jounce and the inside extends/rebound.  When the inner wheels suspension unloads, the spring rate is so high, unloading it supplies the force through the sway bar. (The inner spring is the gorilla!) Into the compressed/jounce side, adding more spring rate to the outer wheel.

But as far as the compressed side toeing, that's the whole point (idea). That's the purpose of toe/steer, the body roll is what creates the steer. Lean left steer right, lean right steer left. Ever so slightly!

Or are you saying a sway bar should actually lower the center of gravity? That I would think probable.

http://www.trackpedia.com/wiki/Suspension

Last edited by Ralphy (8/28/2011 2:15 am)

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8/28/2011 8:26 am  #44


Re: Jag Rear With A Home Made Lower A Arm/Control Arm

I guess I am not explaining this right because you are totally missing my point.  Let me try again

Forget about the rear end for a minute. if you turn the steering wheel the motion goes through all the steering components and the wheels turn not spin but turn, BUT if you get out of the car and grab a tire and turn them the same happens in reverse, the spindle steering arm moves the steering linkage which turns the steering wheel.

now go back to the rear suspension.  if compressing the suspension causes the tire to turn slightly, than the same should be true in reverse.  if the forces applied to the tire by cornering turn the tire it should compress the suspension. 

The rear tires are always going to try to follow the fronts so as you go in to a corner the suspension should react to the pressures from the weight of the car AND the pressures on the tire should also effect suspension height.  As you come out of the corner the suspension should level out because of the car no longer cornering AND because of the wheel trying to get back to the pointing forward position.  SOOOO rear steer should create faster and more consistent suspension response times.

Make sense???

Last edited by Daze (8/28/2011 8:28 am)


If it isn't broken..... modify it anyway!!!!
 

8/28/2011 11:19 am  #45


Re: Jag Rear With A Home Made Lower A Arm/Control Arm

OK,....................................LOL!
Let me try one more time, your referring to the car wanting to go straight? Not cold turkey kinda straight but linearly straight?

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8/28/2011 1:58 pm  #46


Re: Jag Rear With A Home Made Lower A Arm/Control Arm

no I am referring to the car doing both cornering and going straight.  More than anything the transition from one to the other.  Because the rear tires will want to follow the fronts, steering when cornering and be facing forward when not cornering it should work backwards and help position the suspension.

"every action has an equal and opposite reaction"


If it isn't broken..... modify it anyway!!!!
 

8/28/2011 2:50 pm  #47


Re: Jag Rear With A Home Made Lower A Arm/Control Arm

Jeesh! Are you saying with all 4 wheels steering the front to rear compliment each other. Offering a much better controlled transition, less body roll, smoother. A more natural chassis physiology complimenting each others characteristics?

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8/28/2011 3:06 pm  #48


Re: Jag Rear With A Home Made Lower A Arm/Control Arm

nope, lets try agin and I will try to make it even less involved (I tend to over state things)

If suspension movement causes rear steer, than shouldn't the opposite be true that rear steer should cause suspension movement??    I am saying that the rear steer could also be a product of following the front tires and the movement  of the rear tires to the steer position should cause the suspension position to change.  I believe you are thinking the only way the rear tires can steer is if the suspension moves, but I am saying that because the rear tires are designed to move that following the front tires  will cause them to move (some) and the force should be translated BACKWARDS through the suspension causing the suspension position to change.  The two forces should push and pull against each other and make the suspension reaction times quicker.

if that makes sense now go back and look at what I said before and see if it now makes sense.


If it isn't broken..... modify it anyway!!!!
 

8/28/2011 3:32 pm  #49


Re: Jag Rear With A Home Made Lower A Arm/Control Arm

Will do!  Get back later I'm of from work now.

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8/28/2011 6:40 pm  #50


Re: Jag Rear With A Home Made Lower A Arm/Control Arm

Day said: "Here is another thought what if the rear steer was more about controlling suspension movement???  Think about it this way the rear tires are going to try to stay in line with the fronts so if the fronts are cornering the back tires will attempt to corner as well and that force that is turning the rear tire should be translated in to the suspension moving toward the position that would induce the same tire positioning.  same would be true when going strait the tires will try and remain in a forward position and will try and get back to that forward position after going over something that caused suspension travel which should in theory improve suspension reaction times and be some what self correcting.  thoughts???"

Day your getting kinda deep for me. If you pushed this car by hand on a level surface at 1mph, if true. You would see body roll. I don't think you will. Because the only way the rears would be able to try and follow the the fronts would require body roll.

I read once of a guy who could not figure out why the rear of his IRS car would sit at different heights. He transplanted a Corvette IRS int a little British or Japanese car. I later figured it out, to much toe. That little light weight thing had wide tires and no weight. The combination allowed the rear tires to walk inward, jacking the rear upward as it moved forward.  LOL

A side note the front tires on most cars, 99.9999999999999999 % have caster. The caster is what makes a chassis go straight. Put zero caster up front and you will have to steer your car non stop. Some racers have played with zero caster. Less caster also makes a car easier to turn. Same as a shopping cart wheel, trailing it's fixed point.

Another watts link pic.
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=55580

Last edited by Ralphy (8/28/2011 6:53 pm)

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8/28/2011 7:37 pm  #51


Re: Jag Rear With A Home Made Lower A Arm/Control Arm

never mind I still don't think we are on the same page and it rally doesn't matter its all theoretical anyway, but it was fun trying to get my idea across


If it isn't broken..... modify it anyway!!!!
 

8/29/2011 5:20 am  #52


Re: Jag Rear With A Home Made Lower A Arm/Control Arm

My thinking is that gravity and G forces dictate response. A car has an axis point and as you drive that axis point moves left, right, forward and back. How you control it is only by design. To design a fluid system is the builders ultimate goal. It's no different than a runner, golfer, swimmer or a baseball pitcher searching for that ultimate body mechanics.


Jim Blackwood said, "Uh, not to throw a wrench in the works, but if you substitute separate links for the Jag LCA what is going to control torque?"

JB


With this setup Jim you would have a trailing link. Such as Klaus Arning used. Or ? Also it seems to me if you wnt to build the ultimate design. The only way for a backyard guy to do it, is by first building a model.

Last edited by Ralphy (8/29/2011 5:51 am)

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8/29/2011 5:29 am  #53


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8/29/2011 5:55 am  #54


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8/29/2011 9:44 am  #55


Re: Jag Rear With A Home Made Lower A Arm/Control Arm

I get you Daze. Not sure of the forces and their directions yet but I get you.  Analyzing those forces will tell us if it does what you'd like it to do. Sorry guys, I've been off running whitewater. My oldest son's and one of my best friend's birthdays. But good to be back.

Ralphy, I appreciate the insight and I'm not trying to hijack the thread, but since it is a Jag IRS thread and I'm building a Jag IRS I'm not really relating all that well to the trailing arms and upper control arms. I can see where we could go way off on a tangent about how the UCA removes the rotational component caused by accel/decel on the Jag upright which then leaves nothing but modified LCA geomentry to offset the squat induced by the torque load trying to rotate the differential and therefore the body, but it would still be a tangent. The Jag design used the upright to cancel out the torque loading of the differential which, if everything is working right would mean that no supplemental geometry to offset torque is needed. You've got to admit that it is an elegant design feature, if somewhat clunky and heavy.

I've been thinking about the rear steer too. When you watch a car go around a tight corner, doesn't the inside rear tire track to the inside of the inside front tire? The tighter the turn the farther inside it tracks. If you want to change that why wouldn't you just change the ackerman geometry? Does it really help to make the tire track even farther to the inside?

JB

 

8/29/2011 10:32 am  #56


Re: Jag Rear With A Home Made Lower A Arm/Control Arm

I apologize for going off on a tangent that involved different designs. I had thought about that myself and was apologizing sort of back a bit. The original post I asked was how to build anti-squat into a Jag LCA, also toe/steer. The pic I recently posted a link to with the Viper clearly has anti-squat built into it. So trying to show maybe the Jag can be modified the same. Then as I originally asked can the toe/steer be added? I'm trying to relate, to get toe/steer the front bearing carrier mount has to be higher then the rear. That is how Klaus Arning's design works. With his camber rod you have two pivot points/ arcs. The front hub mount is higher in it's arc then the rear hub mount. If you called the three motions of direction of the suspension XYZ and X  was the distance out from center. Again the front hub mount will travel X less then the rear hub mount. Because it is further horizontal. This in turn causes the hub to rotate in regard to jounce. Then the reverse under rebound, the rear hub rotates in causing the hub to rotate out. So when the chassis leans right the wheels turn left and the reverse, TOE/STEER! OK so it's the hub mounting points that create the toe/steer. Can the be incorporated into a LCA by twisting the hub mounting points at the hub on a Jag IRS? AND ALSO mount the LCA leaned backward at the carrier? 

Ralphy said, Think this over you Jag guys. I f you were to make your own lower arm. Then modifying the hub bearing carrier with an angled hole upward to the front. You will achieve toe/steering. You just need to find the right angle!

You may and probably would need to make a new bearing carrier from scratch. The two ends would need to be equal distance from the original position.

So if this works, let's try a step further. Raise the front inner mount of the control arm and lower the rear mount at the carrier. This should do two things.  First under jounce the rear wheel will move back elongating the wheel base. Then also it would create anti-squat/anti-dive? What do you think?


_____________________________________________________________________________________________


Jim said; You've got to admit that it is an elegant design feature, if somewhat clunky and heavy.

I do not agree, it's neutral. It's better than my C3 Corvette design.
However neither incorporate ant-squat/dive, understeer, or an elogation of wheelbase.

Last edited by Ralphy (8/29/2011 12:01 pm)

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8/29/2011 12:40 pm  #57


Re: Jag Rear With A Home Made Lower A Arm/Control Arm

But Ralphy, my point is that if you use trailing links or an upper control arm, the acceleration forces are carried directly to the body of the car in linear fashion, leaving the differential to produce the squat motion by virtue of driveline counter-torque, rotating the body of the car around it's longitudinal CG. Without suspension geometry to counter that squat it will be quite noticeable. So in fact what these geometry changes actually are doing, is to create a jacking force to counteract the squat induced by rotation of the body on acceleration (lifting the nose) This also plants the tires for better traction, but overall lifts the car on its suspension.

The Jag design by contrast, uses the acceleration force to induce a twist into the LCA, transferring it directly to the differential where it offsets the torque counter-rotation that is attempting to lift the nose of the car. Because of this direct link, the car body never feels any of the torque loading that is common to other designs and only experiences the accelerative forces. This is what I meant by an elegant design feature. As a result of course, traction relies completely on static loading of the tires, but the body is not lifted, meaning power can be applied earlier when exiting a corner. In this design (Jag) the only anti-squat that would be needed or desired would be solely for fine tuning purposes with different tires and such and would therefore have to be made adjustable in some way. Anything more and you'll have a car that acts like a drag only machine, with the entire car leaping into the air at a nudge of the throttle.

I'm still not so sure about the toe-steer. Still waiting on an answer. If the rear already tracks inboard of the front why take it further inboard? Are we talking about something that is only effective at high speeds and shallow steering angles, or what? If that is the case I'm not so sure it'll even make a difference on a street driven car.

JB

 

8/29/2011 1:24 pm  #58


Re: Jag Rear With A Home Made Lower A Arm/Control Arm

When you incorporate anti- squat you automatically get anti- dive. When you go into a turn you brake, and turn. In this process weight/axis moves toward the outside front corner/tire. The ant-dive reduces body roll front to rear and dive, holding the rear and especially the rear inside down. Does a Jag IRS do this?

Then I think you can run softer springs improving ride. Go even softer on the springs and add more anti dive, hmmm....... Better ride more control, it's a balancing act?
Think of it as a front to rear sway bar! Would you say I don't need a swaybar?

Jim said: "I'm still not so sure about the toe-steer."

HI

Thanks for the feedback.  Yes, everything in suspension design IS a compromise.  The only proof is in the driving.  Porsche & Mercedes paid Ford a license to use the anti-squat / steering feature for years.  They finally figured out how to add a 5th bar to get around the patent.  It all really works, as Gurney said about the GT-40 at LeMans, "It's really easy to go fast in this thing."

Duane

http://irsforum.boardhost.com/viewtopic.php?id=88

Last edited by Ralphy (8/29/2011 2:16 pm)

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8/29/2011 2:00 pm  #59


Re: Jag Rear With A Home Made Lower A Arm/Control Arm

"First, it was, of course, an independent rear suspension, but it was unlike other IRS systems of the time in which understeer and anti-squat features were inherently incompatible. With the unique “four link IRS, we had a rear suspension that could be tailored to produce anti-squat characteristics. This is a feature to enhance accelerative capabilities and to minimize the effects of “throttle on-off in turns. You could tailor steer steer characteristics for handling, which relates to toe-in toe-out wheel movement. With the Mustang 1, the IRS the IRS was tailored to have a modest amount of under steer, yet it had anti-squat characteristics under acceleration as well as anti-lift characteristics under braking."

Klaus Arning
September 1983
Mustang Monthly


The purpose of as I have learned to call roll steer, is not to steer. But to remove over-steer.

Last edited by Ralphy (8/29/2011 2:14 pm)

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8/29/2011 2:26 pm  #60


Re: Jag Rear With A Home Made Lower A Arm/Control Arm

I do not know. There is much yet to be discovered, at least on my part. However what does seem clear is that fundamental differences exist between the types and those differences can be exploited. The end goal of course should dictate the design to be used, along with mechanical constraints, but the built in anti-dive/anti-squat characteristics brought about by the axle being mounted on a lever arm is pretty unique. I'm not real sure how you could fine tune it. As far as the toe steer, it seems that could be accomplished.

On the whole the design seems far better suited to twisty roads than to straight line power.

JB

 

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