Did some more work on the Vette. Been awhile since I updated this or any other site. Starting to work on it again. Its been awhile.
I desided to hide the bars under the hood. Also started the tubing inside the car. I'm gonna build a whole new frame out back. Also found a new spot for the brake reservoirs. Did some mods to the dash to add some recessed gauges and access to the brake resevoirs. I made a fiberglass cap which will be removable and covered in some sort of material.









 

I've been sneaking a bit spent some time in the garage over the weekend.
Pushed it a little much but I got allot done. Redoing the front subframe mounts.
I had it looked at by a friend of mine who has a machine shop who makes stuff like that. He said it should be plenty strong.
But since I'm putting in a motor with over 850hp I wanted to beef it up.

I understand what your saying and most of those are road race cars where the brakes are used allot. This car if it gets a couple hundred miles a year will be allot.
I appreciate your concerns.

I figured I'd give you all a peek at the motor thats going in.

Some progress pics. The wiring was a mess so I ripped it all out. Going to rewire the whole car. Found a big mess under the console and the dash.
The brake pedal setup was scary. Good for the 80's and a show car that doesn't get driven but not for a car with 1023HP.
So I installed a new Wilwood brake pedal with dual master cylinders. Just have to do the brake lines then that will be done.
Also got a new dash and got it fit in the car. Working on a few small changes now that I didn't like about it.

Jim the rear is actually a quick change.

phantomjock wrote:

Here's a neat Sub Frame on a 60s Custom vette.  Uses the Jag components in a billet milled subframe:



Another view:


And the builder was clever enough to follow through on the FRS as well:



Well thought out and designed suspension sustem - well integrated components including coil overs, Rack and Piniion, etc:


These last 2 could be in the FRS thread as well - but thought nice fit here too.
Cheers - Jim

The builder called me on Sunday and we had a nice long discussion on some of the things I found in the car. Basically I decided to just start over on a few things.
All new brakes and wiring. Removed it all starting over all new. Wilwood brake pedal with dual master cylinders. New cylipers and rotors. Painless harness, Watkins Street Works billet switch panels.
New dash from dash works.
Been working on it about everyday.

I'll have to look at this on my computer none of the pics are showing up on my phone.

I found a whole lot of I don't like that's so far. Lol

Trade if for what????? It better be good I have over $15,000 invested in this one. Lol

I haven't come across a 200 r4 that's strong enough. I looked that route when I put this motor in my T/A the best I found was rated for 450hp.
I was looking at TCI they now make a 4l60e full manual with no electronics needed. But that $3500 more I'd have to spend. Would be cheaper to make a new driveshaft.

Honestly I don't know everything there is to know about front suspension setup.
I know many cars in the early years have rear steer and it seems like all the aftermarket companies make kits to correct them by moving the steering to the front. Not sure why that is if its not an improvement.
Any how the suspension I have now is gonna have to stay because it would cost to much to replace it. I looked at aftermarket kits for the vettes too and there the same front steering.
Which is surprising because on a vette there's plenty of room to do rear steering because the nose is so long.
I would be interested in learning more if you'd care to share.

I plan too. After the holidays I'll get into it. I told all the kids to get me gift cards to Summit Racing this year.
I listed a bunch of Trans Am parts for sale.
Every little bit helps.

The guy I got the car from said he sent him a bunch of pics and lots of info on the car which he lost.
He said he was a great guy.
We will see.

The front end will settle about 3 to 4 inches once the motor is in so that will correct the angle. On the Corvette they have a long nose so the rack is way up front of the motor so it can be positioned anyplace.
I guess the only way to tell is to drive it.
The alignment is done with heim joints.