Would I be better off putting the johnny joint in the trailing arm or attaching one to the end?
Main considerations are strength, durability as well as adjustments for toe-in/-out (read as simplest)
With the joint in the trailing arm I see that shims are used for alignment, is this correct?

Also, are there any other spots with my suspension that need to be modified to handle the extra power?
I wouldn't want to miss something while I've got it all "aparty"!!

Thanks for the help!

Hope I've got this right
First diagram shows the rear suspension design
Picture has a redone set up
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The pin (red arrow) on the diagram is prone to wearing out fast
The end/front of the arm is what has been modified
Here is one option I was able to find
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For this type of setup, this arm controls/adjusts toe-in/out. It would seem that changing it to a rose joint/ball joint allows "length" but not "side-to-side" that would be needed for toe adjustment. Is there a more efficient wat to solve this issue?
It definitely removes the weak pin problem
Thanks

Looking for input/help to improve the rear suspension for a 1985 TVR 280i. It has an existing trailing arm suspension with a jaguar rear differential/inboard brake setup. The main problem I'm trying to correct/improve is the front pivot pin to the front of the arm. This pin tends to wear out fast and dangerously ! This also is where toe-in is adjusted. Currently I noticed a negative camber on the right. I believe the wearing out front pin is in part contributing to this. With the solid axle, shims are used next to the differential for adjustments and I'll have to look at those too.