on April 19, 2010, 7:52 pm, Daze wrote:

So I see that you cut off the OEM trailing arms, are you planning on using the OEM end... or did you just cut them to get the system out. That gave me an idea to use the OEM stuff on my project if I can find replacement bushings at a reasonable price.

on April 20, 2010, 8:20 am, Daze wrote:

I new that... don't know what I was thinking when I said that, I new you had the watts in mind   my question is why. a watts link is in my understanding a way to eliminate side to side motion on a live axle. I can not see how that would replace the trailing arms, unless you plan on running two of them and mounting them parallel with the length of the car in the trailing arm position. Very curious please enlighten me.

on April 20, 2010, 8:22 pm, Daze wrote:

well I don't see why it wouldn't work, in fact it is a brilliant idea , but it seams like overkillSome of the hot rod guys don't even run trailing arms because the wishbones are so solid. The aftermarket tubular LCA don't need trailing arms. I guess what I am saying is it shouldn't take much to stabilize the system.

Your idea is slick and it would look sharp and probably work really well, but it kind of seams like killing a nat with a sledge hammer

on April 21, 2010, 8:05 am, Daze wrote:

I hope I didn't offend.I wasn't trying to put down the idea, I think it will be a very effective trailing arm replacement. I was just saying that it seams that there are simpler/easier ways to do it. Now if you are doing it just to see if you can, than thats something totally different and that I completely understand
As for the outboard disc brakes, I am not going to do those on my Mustang. Those will go on the Galaxie. My plan with the Galaxie is to use the original cage and so getting to the inboard discs will be a pain. On the mustang I should have all kinds of access so inboard will work just fine.

on July 21, 2010, 3:00 am, tyrellracing wrote:

The original Klaus Arning design for the mustang was a setup that used a watts link type leading link/trailing link to control the fore and aft movement of the hub. This made the suspension travel in a exponential curve to combat squat under acceleration. The Jag travels in a linear angular motion by comparison. Both systems provide anti-squat but the Arning design is far superior due to the ability to resist lifting the vehicle above normal ride height under acceleration. As the suspension travels up from full droop,the movement is near vertical until it passes normal ride height then it begins to travel rearward. In this manor the watts linkage has leverage to lift if the rear squats but looses this leverage as it regains correct ride height. In contrast the Jag suspension has leverage to lift the rear of the vehicle through out the full travel of the rear. This promotes wheel hop because it continues lifting rite past normal ride height and will jack the vehicle up until traction is lost then with the torque load gone, the rear drops and the cycle begins again and wheel hop is created. The Arning system requires the removal of the inner wish bone assembly on the LCA and converting it to a single point mount that will allow angular as well as rotational movement. Because the Jag LCA will not allow rotational travel in the transverse direction the watts system cannot be installed with out serious mods.

on July 25, 2010, 4:00 am, tyrellracing wrote:

Before I began rebuilding my wife's engine I was making the necessary parts to convert my Jag IRS to a Klaus Arning setup. I have been taking pictures so I will post them when I have enough to make sense.

on April 30, 2010, 11:09 am, Mustsed wrote:

Not yet installed and I .........................have to wait until my IRS is in the car. I am still waiting for the 3.73:1 gears to arrive so the install can go.

I will show pics and report everything in a new post when I am that far.

Mustsed